Popeye's Favorite - Where the Valley and the Surf Meet

Stormy South - Drain Pipe

Spring Equinox!!!! Spring Equinox!!!! March 19, 2011. Just finished a solid week of rain and some surf. There was a mix of small south and near-shore groundswell producing shoulder to head-high surf. A strong north wind filled in behind the lows that have been bringing the weather. The water was cold- so cold – and the wind didn’t help. I got some fun ones at the Steps before the crowd; tide and stiffness conspired to bring me in. The shower was hot and long.

Surfed Tiburones at low tide today; the wind was blowing strong out of the north-northwest, and the cloud cover enhanced the chill. Across the bay, snow could be seen on top of the Los Padres range. Got a couple of wind-swell zippers and hightailed it home for some warmth. While I was out, I saw spring in person. A new mother otter had a small ball of fur on her belly while she swam through the kelp near the takeoff. I considered how cold I was, and how many frigid springs otters have been rearing pups. Unfuckingbelievable! March 21, 2012 – the sun came out and a spring wind textured the water. I repeated the Tiburones trek and had a fun session – small crowd – Gary and Knee-Boarder Roy. A long-wait small south was running with wind-swell inbetweeners. Water was still chilly – as expected for spring. More rain is coming.

Swell started out weak today – March 30, 2012, but definitely west-southwest. Later in the day as the tide filled in, so did the swell. Not real good shape – more west. I looked – and looked – and finally bagged it for another day. We shall see. A tad more south and things may shape up. But wait – the buoys tell the story – 9.3 feet from 300 at 17 seconds and 2.1 feet from 180 at 20 seconds.

It’s early, early early, April 1, 2012. Gerry says there’s a good south hitting the islands. I heard it was going to be macking here today. So, i checked the buoy – see below. The south would be great – the west-northwest would be overwhelming – together – a spectacle? The rising sun will provide the feedback.

Looks Big on Paper

Last Word: The universe is all whys and maybes. All meanings coincide; all answers are condensed into one or none. Nothing yields to logic. Lucius Shepard