The road

A friend related a theory regarding human evolution I had never heard of – the aquatic ape hypothesis. The theory posits the ancestors of modern humans spent a period of time adapting to life in a wet environment. The theory was developed to address the fact that some traits that set humans apart from other primates parallel those in aquatic mammals. These traits include hairlessness, descended larynx (enables us to hold our breath) – and, well there are more. I’m not sure – at first glance the theory sounds weak – but then I considered surfers. I’m not talking about the reent drop-ins – but the core crew. Is it possible that some genetic material from eons past resurfaces every once in a while and drives some of us to the water? It is true that some of us act like apes while in the water – but there are other more subtle traits – like the need to have ocean air in your lungs, the draw to fishing and beach-combing, the feeling of comfort provided by just being in the ocean, the invigoration provided by paddling and swimming, the joy of moving with a wave, and hanging with the crew. It’s possible – surfers are the ancestors of aquatic apes – at least some of us.

The desert in green

Took a road trip recently – down to the tip of Baja and back. It was spectacular! Great landscapes, good people, and surf. It was more education than vacation. I am still trying to get my mind around it – kinda ramping down – so there isn’t much to say. My benefactor and teacher assured my experience would be in-depth, and so there is much to consider. While I was gone, the final weeks of the election came and went, the president was reelected, and the head of the CIA had a fling. I didn’t miss a thing – except my wife and family. Now, its back to work – but I brought back a couple of things – part of the education. With respect to surfing, I learned that I was way too comfortable – I need to get back to some serious “I need a cord” surfing. My benefactor pushed me into some good overhead surf that was fun-filled with boulders, boils, jagged rock-lined beaches, late-take offs, and outside maulers. I brought a super responsive 5’4″ and a 6’2″ – the shorter board didn’t cut it – but I discovered the beauty of a little length and weight – back to the drawing board. Anyway – I will relate a little more about the trip next time – maybe a fish story – those are always good.

Final Word: My benefactor taught me a phrase Picasso used – I dwell on it  - “authenticity of process”