Hearsay

Sunday's waves at the hook were waist high, with bigger waves at the point. My neighbor said he got overhead waves at twosix and had fun - but I call him a pussy hawaiian because it is never big enough. I was a bit over-gunned for Sunday’s waves due to damage to my extensive quiver (sure), so I barrowed a friend's (the enforcer) board. Of course, every kook who had an opportunity to crash into me tried. Penguin even did his best to derail my day (even though I dropped in on him). Luckily, I escaped without damaging the board. So much pressure. During the bullshit session on the cliff, and out in the water, the hearsay regarding the incoming swell - the one that was supposed to be in the water on Sunday, was coming from all directions. Someone told me a police report was hearsay - I had no idea. Surf reports on the other hand - that's hearsay - it should be here - it's big up north - it's big at the beaches - the surf report says. Oh well, I had fun.
Monday's wave were a bit better - waist to chest high with the occasional head high set. It was fun and the crew was local; even KevinM, famed backslider who was trying to convince us that we should give him a break because of his goofy foot disability was out. He was ripping. Speaking of ripping - I saw north coast steve and ronnie, along with others, checking out what I thought was steve's new board. Upon closer inspection, I found out that they were inspecting his use-to-be board. The nose was broken off and hanging by the top sheet of glass and his layered fiberglass middle fin was shattered from the middle out. North coast and several witnesses said the use-to-be status of the board and fin was due to a collision. North coast was charging a second bowl wave, apparently the wave of the day, when a kook decided to practice the fine art of surfing on the same wave that north coast was on. It was to late for evasive maneuvers and the inevitable T-bone occurred. By the looks of steve's board, he must have been flying. When asked, the perpetrator of this crime said, "this is my first day in the water". For some reason north coast had pity on him and is looking forward to a new stick. That's plenty for tonight, but some topics for thought - Huntington Beach is now legally, trademarked, Surf City - they can have it . Someone asked me when I thought a traffic light would be installed at the intersection of 41st and Portola - what do you think? Finally, I asked the mayor to check in and he did. Still practicing computer literacy for seniors, I had to import his words and provide some editing. Here it is - he usually doesn't scream in person:
"I HAVE HAD INJURY AFTER INJURY ARM, NECK, BACK. BUT I AM GETTING BETTER. BEEN OUT OF THE WATER FOR ABOUT A MONTH, GOING NUTS. BACK IN THE WATER SOON. DON’T GET BUMMED, I WONT DROP IN ON YOU UNLESS I DON’T KNOW YOU. (if he knows you he'll drop in on you more) HEAR CAL GOT A WAVE AT SHARKS ALL THE way TO PRIVATES, A NOSE RIDE, AND NO Swims. GUSTAV You’re A KOOK. HEAR Jason’s GETTING MARRIED, HAS ANY ONE ELSE Heard THAT? THAT’S ALL FOR NOW." THE MAYOR