12.18.2004
Hype
HypeSwell never really materialized, but the masses did. Friday had some size, 8 to 10 feet at 17 seconds from 295, but the morning bump lasted almost all day. The ocean cleaned up late. I surfed second bowl and got some fun overhead bombs, but I heard from the sharks crew it was great thursday evening (pre-hype session). One charger told me he got one of the longest waves of the year for him. I also heard penguin and graphic mike were ripping. All the species were represented - except me; I'm sure they didn't miss me. Today, I surfed second bowl while penguin charged sharks. I had great fun even though it was massSaturday. Some overhead swell left from the "hype" swell. I stayed just inside on the bowl and got a couple of incomming tide walls. When I got out, the core crew was building. Dane ran through the lot delirious - dreams of throwing buckets.Someone commented on my ranting and pointed out that the redevelopment of 41st and Portola looked nice. I agree, it does look good. I'm just afraid it's the calm before the storm. Maybe the "up-marketing" of our area will be done right - but what is right? Is the parking lot at the hook right? What about property rights? These are not simple issues, but they are issues made right with money. I'm waiting to hear from the mayor.
Comments:
The new development on the corner does look nice , but the community would be better served if the new coastline Brewery had taken up residence there instead of the big buisness surf superstore , aka Billibong. I have no problem with the upgrading of the point, as long as the money made here goes back into the community. what does piss me off is when large companies cruise into town and take the money they make and ship it elewhere. There are plenty of well to do cats in this town that could invest in the community that they live in so opportunities for these out of towners would be less. This is the calm before a storm that is inevitable, but we can make it less destructive by choosing our own destiny, rather than doing nothing at all. As far as the parking lot goes, I think it is killer just as long as me and the boys get a spot every time we surf. you can't tell me it didn't suck to have to change in the dirt. If I had a choice though, I would have kept the lot dirt, remove the stairs, and go back to the way it used to be because every time i go to surf and the lot is full, I hate that f*%king lot and curse all the out of town kooks that pollute the hook on a daily basis.
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: 10:23 AM
: 10:23 AM