Just like Summer

Long period swells from the west have provided some waist to head high waves at second bowl and first bowl. As the tide drops the focus moves to first bowl. Had fun the last couple of days, and it wasn't too crowded mid-morning Christmas day. The long wait for sets and sunshine makes it seem like summer - but the shadows are long and the sun doesn't get too high. Someone in the surf shop employ told me they did great selling boards this year; couldn't keep up with demand. The MTV crew are on it, but what about us? Inexperience, boards flying, and old school traditions out the window. I heard it said "take care of your spot, don't let it get out of hand and fall to the masses". Fair enough. The coming year will bring plenty of pressure on our spot given the indicators. Do we surf angry? What about our safety? I think we need to be firm about our expectations, communicate, and have fun. So far, I've been pretty ineffective. In contrast, the enforcer continues to keep some assemblance of order while in the water. Is the mayor up to it? Are we up to it? here is what we are trying to take care of.

  ¶ 9:20 PM