Swell and the weekend
Friday's waves were smaller than Thursday, but still real fun. Still some overhead sets; mostly shoulder to head high - the top of the point had the biggest waves. Surfed the hook and sharks. As the tide went down, saw some great top to bottom third bowl barrels. Tide went real low and surf continued to drop. There was a bit of Friday follies in the water. Saturday saw the swell continue to drop in size, but there were still fun waves waist to head high - the buoy showed 6.9 feet at 17 seconds from 285. The crowds were driving over the hill in force - it was mass-Saturday in the water. On another note, I heard the new Billibong shop got vandalized. The shop - the building - is another step in the commercialism of the point. You've seen the houses, farm property turned to condos, and the cost of life for core surfers get out of hand. I guess it had to happen sometime, but I'm glad to see discourse on the subject - even if the discussion is visual. You got to make a living - just ask the surf school owners and employees.