Thursday, January 13, 2005
The Islands
Two bros have returned from the islands - it's the usual story. Sun, blue water, overhead surf, and of course - "not that crowded". I hate these guys. I'm not only stuck around the block (which I really shouldn't be complaining about), but even the guys going down to the beaches are stinging me - "really fun man, and not that crowded". This winter has been tough. Flat or stormy with the occasional window (not a picture window, but a real small bathroom window). Today, small as yesterday. Day before - the bullshit crew on the cliff asked if I went out. They were gloating like they had just smoked the kine', you know that grin - but shit, I looked and really didn't see anything but phat wind swell peaks just asking to boggggggg. I was dreaming of surf a week ago. But now, being so forgetful, I can't remember enough surf for a dream. Pictures, imitations of surf, will have to do. Some more words to use in the surfblog - epic, righteous, grom, boggin', gnarly, fat, rolling, mushy, session, barge, savage, wired, line up. Dude, seriously - the picture. Who's this mate with the kung fu pose? - nice wave.
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Ah yes, the islands... what can I say, but, fun and not really that croweded. Then you got to remember that it was THUNDERING... tow-ins at outside Hideaways, Bay too big to surf, Middles triple over head and guys slotted way to long and making it (some poor saps didn't), Tunnels out of control (so big, guys are surfing the up against the beach reef on the north side of the beach... go figure, 85% dredging closeouts on the sand... Then again, what to do when you only have a 6'10" round pin, charge the east side where it was 12 to 15 and FIRING!! If I could post photos, it would be awesome. Get it fixed BOB...
Whilst you all were being pissed on, we all were basking. It was enjoyable. It seems that ever since I moved to the southern reaches of the arm pit, I've spent more time in the islands! Kind of cool. As for this area, it sucks! Surf sucks, traffic sucks, air quality sucks! But I reckon I sold my soul to make enough to own a piece of paradise on Kauai.... Also, the crowds, yeah, it's crowded, but not with a frickin bunch of wanna-be-butt-wiggling-arm waving-loud mouth-POSs that wish they were something. I is definitely something after 15 years in the Cruz I do not miss... But, I do miss the bros.
KB
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Whilst you all were being pissed on, we all were basking. It was enjoyable. It seems that ever since I moved to the southern reaches of the arm pit, I've spent more time in the islands! Kind of cool. As for this area, it sucks! Surf sucks, traffic sucks, air quality sucks! But I reckon I sold my soul to make enough to own a piece of paradise on Kauai.... Also, the crowds, yeah, it's crowded, but not with a frickin bunch of wanna-be-butt-wiggling-arm waving-loud mouth-POSs that wish they were something. I is definitely something after 15 years in the Cruz I do not miss... But, I do miss the bros.
KB
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