King

The king was crowned today, but I didn't notice. We've had a king-size swell that has kept my attention. All that east-coast bullshit going on - but we sat in the warm sun, snatching great waves. Yesterday was epic - buoy showed 9.7 to 10.9 feet at 17 seconds from 290. Today - it was jacking, 8.3 feet at 14 seconds from 295. All-time, screaming down the line- yes the crowd was sketchy at times. The bros looked tired and satisfied at the end of the day and the sunset was firing. Yes, it is not the islands, but it is home. Far away from the news of the day. It looks like we'll have two or three more days of this swell - and towards the end, who knows? maybe the masses will back off a little and there will be some soul time. You know, you and a couple of your bros trading off and hooting. I hope you guys had fun cranking the first swell of 2005.

  ¶ 10:07 PM