Tuesday, January 18, 2005
Special Day
It was dry for a long, long time, but today the swell picked up. What makes it a special day is that I got to see all my friends, and had plenty of time to visit with them. Dude, seriously - long period (long wait) swell with way too many heated bros. As I watch the buoys, I see the swell is picking up. It went from 8.8 feet at 17 seconds from 290 to 9.5 feet and 14 seconds from 280 in four hours. I also checked the islands and it showed the swell slowly dying. Looks like we have maybe three to four days of ground swell - and then? Will all our friends be surfed out by then? Will the crowd factor begin to get reasonable? Who the fuck knows. Ever notice how the number of challenged surfers exponentially increases during "the swell". Well,I got a couple of waves, but I think the high time was when I was munching on an early season surf then turf then surf barbecue set up by lance - thanks bro - like you said - shouldn't this be fun. It was a beautiful day. The ocean glassed off and the tide came in and really smoothed the sets out. There was a lot of ripping goin' down - remember: burn or be burned. I mentioned the islands last time and the sickness of those who have to go into detail regarding their time there - fuck you. A picture is worth a thousand fuck you-s
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Yesterday Was Fucking Lame!!!!! It should have been fun yesterday, your right.That is really hard to do when you have 25 longboarders out there taking eveything that remotely looks like a wave.Bro's no matter how eggy they may be need to remember that they are bros, and let everybody share on the wealth. There were fuckers out there yesterday doing the " loud dude mambo ". Looked like they took a page out of the 38th ave handbook. What the fuck is up with that anyway, why do guys sit 8 miles outside. They almost always have to paddle like a dog on speed to catch the wave and more times than not it is right where I am sitting. Why can't we just all sit in the bowl, it would sure level out the playing field, and hell maybe a few of the over 50 crowd might get a bit better.As far as the comments about the islands, so sorry you get your pantys in a bunch when you hear of your bro's getting quality surf with no one out. It sure is nice going to a place where the burn or be burned attitude is not apparent. There it is more like burn and get beat. If that plan was in place here there would be some people who wouldn't get a wave all year. Respect is something that is alive and well in the islands and , and maybe a few of us should take a page out of that notebook...... ya think.
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