It Matters

Today was another beautiful day on the bay - winter? Surfed second bowl with small crew, waist to head high, clean medium tide zippers. Most fun. Still, the surf paled compared to Monday when second bowl reeled into third bowl stand up barrels. Besides the surf, another thing I remember about Monday was getting burned, and not feeling to bad about it. It was the classic situation. I caught a great wave at second bowl and was racing down the line - mach 15. As I pulled into third bowl, the wave heaved the green roof over my head - I was in a sweet barrel. Then, one of the crew taking off at third bowl decided I wasn't going to make it. He dropped in and nearly t-boned me. He bailed while I pumped out of the barrel and straightened-out. He provided the cursory "sorry man". As I paddled past him I muttered jokingly "barrel of a lifetime, but....". I still got most of the experience. Later, while I was changing in the lot, the dude came up to me and continued to apologize. He knew I was piped and he made a mistake. I appreciated his sincerity - it matters. We all end up burned - it is what it is. How we deal with the leftovers matters. Angry, worried about safety, good clean fun with a bro, a mistake, or just learning. I'm sure the Mayor has experience in this field. Recently, Goose was visiting Manhattan Beach to visit family. He brought his LB, but said it was hard to ride at the fast-paced, here and gone beach breaks of the area. I told him to hit paddleboard cove in PV. A nice easy LB wave I had seen many a senior cruise. Above paddleboard cove is an all-time winter left point break that takes any size. Here are pictures from the 1st.05 swell via KB.




  ¶ 10:35 PM