Phat

Over the last couple of days, the ocean provided some storm wind swell trying for some ground swell phat peaky flat spot shore break waves. However, I'm not complaining. The surf is a place to go and feel all the good things that make the present moment wonderful. I had a great time. Without surf, family, and friends, I'd be lost in a sea of stress and trouble. I foot the bill so my country can use "enhanced interrogation methods" to protect me; we are leading the globe into another nuclear arms race; and on the near side, workshop drama never ceases to amaze me. All that being said - I'm thankful for what I got. I saw the Bird today while I was out in the water. He was flashing a shortboard from his crotch. The picture gave me an idea. DNA therapy, cloning, stem cell body modification, and plastic surgery - instead of a penis, how about a shortboard that swells on demand? Sorry ladies. Easy to travel with (strap-on), no dings (but possible surgery), and always available. Paddling and take-off would be easy enough, but I have a hard time envisioning standing and cranking a bottom turn - but not to worry, I'm sure science could work it out. What about hard rails? While I'm considering shortboard design - can anyone tell me about the pluses and minuses of thickness - dude, seriously. How about getting air?

  ¶ 11:50 PM