4.06.2005
One Day
Surf out front has stayed relatively small, even though there was a north swell at 14 seconds. Unfortunately, the swell direction is pretty steep for the point - especially below first peak. As one of the crew put it, "the swell is coming from the northeast". I surfed on Tuesday and got some fun waves - small, but it was a beautiful day. After a few slides, I got distracted by the boyz holding court on the rock at shark's. Sure enough, the mayor, lance, charlie, chili, et. al. were grooving on the day with a trademark 'cue by lance. Burgers never tasted so good - fresh out of the water, burger in hand - what next? Well, how about a game of extreme beach bacci ball, followed by some low tide boning. Later that evening, I capped the day off with a baseball game between 13/14 year old Pony leaguers. The wonderful day got me thinking about what's important. If you had one day to live, how would you live it? Some work, surf, friends, family, sex, more surf, food, great views, music, art, literature......could you fit it all in, and be satisfied at the end of your term. Thankfully, we have more than one day, but I am trying to live every day like it is One Day. Is there room for TV? Maybe- surf stoke, good flick, debate, information, baseball...I've decided to measure the worth of an endeavor against the One Day question. I know I won't always be successful - but I'm going to try my hardest. So, is writing this blog worth it? I think so. It makes me recount the day, relive the highlights, and think deeply about it's course. Pictures like the one below allow us to capture things that are part of One Day and relive what's important. It's making art, viewing art, and visualizing One Day. See ya in the water.