6.22.2005
Solid
Starting Sunday, a solid south began to fill in - lighting up the east side. Second peak and 38th have been on - but first bowl has been firing with pros ripping and sharks - sharks has been sharks. As MJ said - the best 100 yards in SC. Tracking the swell, it started out at about 2 feet from 180 at 17 seconds. Monday afternoon the swell was 3.2 feet from 200 at 17 seconds, and Monday night the swell was 4.2 feet from 205 at 14 seconds. Tuesday broke with the swell at 3.2 feet from 195 at 14 seconds, and tonight the swell is still holding at 3 feet from 190 at 14 seconds. Solid. Well, the pack of rats have been hungry and the kookfest is all time. Trying to save my new board - I took it out when the swell was building and the pack was out to lunch. It worked great - can't wait to get the courage up to see it get trashed by some kook - and use it more often. Took the plastic fantastic tech out on Monday and some kook initiated it righteously. I was flyyyyying down the line, when out of the ether some idiot pitched his board over the falls. I tried emergency maneuvers, but to no avail. Lost a fin and split both FCS plugs in half. I chased the idiot in - he acted stupid, stated it was only his third day surfing, and explained he was broke. fuck it. Today was worse. First handful of waves, I stared at someone's ass, then experienced the sharks section effect - very few waves at sharks have room for two. Even breath on it, and 20 yards cranks off. My cord broke, but Shane saved me a full swim. I would like to recognize some of those whose ass I last saw before getting blasted: Cal - more than once? double your fun, craig - in the doubles club - no worries, MJ - as usual, Arnie Jr. - you're just a dickhead, surf school - what can I say, all the others I know not - fuck you. It's all good fun. I'm sure I'm on someone else's list too. He who feels it knows it. My last rant left the US in charge of California - the Mexicans lost out. The Americans swiftly took their land, citizenship, and began racial discrimination. Next comes the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo. See your ass in the surf!