Wednesday, August 03, 2005
Happy Birthday
The last week has seen small knee to waist high south swell with the occasional - long wait - chest high set. Been on the glide through the week, but I finally broke out the SB for a couple of waves after the last glide session. Conditions have been beautiful, but gosh - if it isn't crowded enough, the surf schools push it over the top. At least half of the waves I got at sharks during the week included runs through a hazards course. The course consists of kooks paddling in your way, kooks sitting in your way, kooks dropping in on you, kooks throwing their boards out at you, and general kook clusterfucks. It's kookdom. I'm still mystified as to why they can't learn by riding the whitewater. Instead, they paddle out to the bowl and create a safety hazard. Have you seen the Mayor's new glideride - wow! When can I try it? And Rick, how is your self inflected plastic surgery doing. Do you really think you'll make the next issue of GQ? I'm sure - 27 stitches when a couple of butterflies would have done the job. Wimp. There's no way you're going to look as good as Terry (Fabio). Today is my mother's birthday. She would have been 71 - but checked out before her time via an auto accident. She always kept me by the beach, supported my surf stoke from the beginning, and gave me most of what I am. She and I got SCUBA certified and dove together, she got me to ride horses, kept me swimming when the surf wasn't happening, was my best hippy friend, taught me the wonders of classical music, made sure I played music, played the best of SF music during the 60's, gave me rides to and from the beach, turned me on to science, science fiction, and fantasy, and kept me in Catholic school. I miss her today - I wish she could share the life she gave me. That's the tragedy of the stupid war - mothers and sons missing out on sharing their lives together - part of the collateral damage. Fuck you guys sitting in high places doling out the future for others! I've started an experiment to follow the doublespeak of this war. I understand the WhiteWash is beginning to change the propaganda - a move from "war on terror" to "struggle against violent extremism". In my mind, the WhiteWash is just this side of extreme. Anyway, I plan on following the change by sampling Google. On July 29, 2005 WOT got 23,100,000 hits, while SAVE got 121,000. The WhiteWash is going to SAVE the world. On another note, sounds like we'll have a new Justice before long. The guy doesn't sound too bad, but this quote suggests a careless and less than understanding view of nature. In a rendering he stated "a hapless toad, for reasons of its own, lives its entire life in one state...". Strange - an unlucky toad - who by its own reasoning - decided to get in the way of the State. From tadpole to toad - never thought to pickup and move. He was making a living of it, but then the State came in and took his livelihood. For reasons of his own? Decided to - protest? I'm still working on the West Bank presentation - good things take time. Dwell on this in the mean time.
The last week has seen small knee to waist high south swell with the occasional - long wait - chest high set. Been on the glide through the week, but I finally broke out the SB for a couple of waves after the last glide session. Conditions have been beautiful, but gosh - if it isn't crowded enough, the surf schools push it over the top. At least half of the waves I got at sharks during the week included runs through a hazards course. The course consists of kooks paddling in your way, kooks sitting in your way, kooks dropping in on you, kooks throwing their boards out at you, and general kook clusterfucks. It's kookdom. I'm still mystified as to why they can't learn by riding the whitewater. Instead, they paddle out to the bowl and create a safety hazard. Have you seen the Mayor's new glideride - wow! When can I try it? And Rick, how is your self inflected plastic surgery doing. Do you really think you'll make the next issue of GQ? I'm sure - 27 stitches when a couple of butterflies would have done the job. Wimp. There's no way you're going to look as good as Terry (Fabio). Today is my mother's birthday. She would have been 71 - but checked out before her time via an auto accident. She always kept me by the beach, supported my surf stoke from the beginning, and gave me most of what I am. She and I got SCUBA certified and dove together, she got me to ride horses, kept me swimming when the surf wasn't happening, was my best hippy friend, taught me the wonders of classical music, made sure I played music, played the best of SF music during the 60's, gave me rides to and from the beach, turned me on to science, science fiction, and fantasy, and kept me in Catholic school. I miss her today - I wish she could share the life she gave me. That's the tragedy of the stupid war - mothers and sons missing out on sharing their lives together - part of the collateral damage. Fuck you guys sitting in high places doling out the future for others! I've started an experiment to follow the doublespeak of this war. I understand the WhiteWash is beginning to change the propaganda - a move from "war on terror" to "struggle against violent extremism". In my mind, the WhiteWash is just this side of extreme. Anyway, I plan on following the change by sampling Google. On July 29, 2005 WOT got 23,100,000 hits, while SAVE got 121,000. The WhiteWash is going to SAVE the world. On another note, sounds like we'll have a new Justice before long. The guy doesn't sound too bad, but this quote suggests a careless and less than understanding view of nature. In a rendering he stated "a hapless toad, for reasons of its own, lives its entire life in one state...". Strange - an unlucky toad - who by its own reasoning - decided to get in the way of the State. From tadpole to toad - never thought to pickup and move. He was making a living of it, but then the State came in and took his livelihood. For reasons of his own? Decided to - protest? I'm still working on the West Bank presentation - good things take time. Dwell on this in the mean time.
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Dude lets change the name of your site to " Lack of Pleasure Point Surf " or even better " Pleasure Pointless Surf "..............summer sucks!!!
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