Thursday, August 18, 2005
Steep but Satisfying
The south swell began hitting the point and the hook yesterday. The buoys showed the swell coming in at 3 feet from 180 at 14 seconds - way steep. I took the LB out and showed real patience through the long waits for a couple of glides at sharks. Today the swell was a little bigger and more consistent, but the buoys still showed it coming in from a steep south angle. In any case, I got to use the SB all day and had a great time (except for the constant disrespect shown by LB idiots dropping in down the line). My new Progression Quad fish is real fun even on small waves - if the waves have punch. Penguin - how's your new Junot? I understand you've been on the north coast ripping it with the pros. Overhead bowls while we grovel in town. I guess that most of you that check in here have heard the Mayor's proposal to rally around the flag against the surf school invasion. I've made my thoughts on surf schools known. If you must commercialize a tribal tradition steeped in lore, ritual, and brotherhood - go for it. But, don't bring it raining down on us - not on our sacred alter. Surf school teachers and operators - that's not how you got it. The mayor has plenty of support - we all have stories of our day being trashed by SS students or former students. Yesterday, one of the instructors asked me about what was going on - I told him and asked if he was going to contribute to a solution. He had some ideas - some that may work. But why did it wait until we were left with no alternatives. They just tried to overwhelm us. Surfing has always tried to remain outside the governmentinstitutionalestablishment. We don't want their suits and ties dictating our scene - However, in working to involve the County via ordinance, we are succumbing to their methods. Black Ball, lifeguards, patrols, fair, talent/experience doesn't matter. Maybe a meeting and show of solidarity will be enough to bring the stakeholders to the table. Wouldn't it be nice to come to an agreement without the governmentinstitutionalestablishment? Can it be done? Or is money bigger than our precious tradition. I believe that those into selling the surf can do it without compromising our cathedral. In the end, I'm with the tribe - win or lose. Watch this page for more information on the time and place for meeting(s) and rally(s).
The south swell began hitting the point and the hook yesterday. The buoys showed the swell coming in at 3 feet from 180 at 14 seconds - way steep. I took the LB out and showed real patience through the long waits for a couple of glides at sharks. Today the swell was a little bigger and more consistent, but the buoys still showed it coming in from a steep south angle. In any case, I got to use the SB all day and had a great time (except for the constant disrespect shown by LB idiots dropping in down the line). My new Progression Quad fish is real fun even on small waves - if the waves have punch. Penguin - how's your new Junot? I understand you've been on the north coast ripping it with the pros. Overhead bowls while we grovel in town. I guess that most of you that check in here have heard the Mayor's proposal to rally around the flag against the surf school invasion. I've made my thoughts on surf schools known. If you must commercialize a tribal tradition steeped in lore, ritual, and brotherhood - go for it. But, don't bring it raining down on us - not on our sacred alter. Surf school teachers and operators - that's not how you got it. The mayor has plenty of support - we all have stories of our day being trashed by SS students or former students. Yesterday, one of the instructors asked me about what was going on - I told him and asked if he was going to contribute to a solution. He had some ideas - some that may work. But why did it wait until we were left with no alternatives. They just tried to overwhelm us. Surfing has always tried to remain outside the governmentinstitutionalestablishment. We don't want their suits and ties dictating our scene - However, in working to involve the County via ordinance, we are succumbing to their methods. Black Ball, lifeguards, patrols, fair, talent/experience doesn't matter. Maybe a meeting and show of solidarity will be enough to bring the stakeholders to the table. Wouldn't it be nice to come to an agreement without the governmentinstitutionalestablishment? Can it be done? Or is money bigger than our precious tradition. I believe that those into selling the surf can do it without compromising our cathedral. In the end, I'm with the tribe - win or lose. Watch this page for more information on the time and place for meeting(s) and rally(s).