The Buck Stops Here

The surf is small at the Hook, a little larger up the point. A north-northwest swell (310 degrees)at 10 seconds is barely making it around the point. Of course, the surf is bigger up north where there is more exposure. Saw Pat and Wayne going out for a LB session at second bowl - I'm sure they had fun. Rich told my wife he was out for three hours! I was hard at work. I got surf before and after the weekend mayhem swell, but the water looked too dangerous over the weekend. Did some SB tracks before the week-ender and had some fun riding Rich's and Rick's LBs on Sunday. It was tough to hear about the surfer who past while surfing Sunday at Sharks. You just never know when you'll get the call - so don't waste time. The days have been bright and the fall equinox is behind us. It's downhill from here till the winter solstice - not my favorite time of the year. These days, it matches my own cycle of life too closely. No rumors of swell on the event horizon, but this is the time of year for west swells and good conditions. Looking back on the year - it's been a strange one. Late rain, barely any summer, and swells far and few between. Well, I'm sure you're all happy that the US torture fix is over. We've cleaned house by prosecuting two PFCs and it seems we've got everything all wrapped up. The Gonzalez memo, Presidential review, the military chain of command, continued stories of torture - all inconsequential. Just a few bad apples - couple of PFCs, a high ranking officer transferred - kinda reminds me of the few bad apples that were fixing the books, participating in insider trading, swindling government contracts, influencing the direction of the peoples money through government lobbying, cronyism, the list goes on. It must be a large crate of apples to have just a few bad ones. Tough times for GW, but the buck stops here. He promotes intelligent design - but can't see the conflict in it. The picture above is evidence of that. The water is shining so bright - see ya out there.  ¶ 10:51 PM