10.13.2005
So Much and So Little Time
In the wayback machine, on October 8, after days of small surf, the buoys show a swell in the bay - 6.9 feet at 9 seconds from 310 degrees. Meanwhile, at the Harvest Platform (Point Conception) two swells are showing. One at 6 feet from 310 at 12 seconds and another at 3.3 feet from 180 at 17 seconds. It seemed like things were shaping up - but no! Wind from the southeast and high tide all the next day killed it. The day after things cleaned up and the surf was pumping from both swell directions. The tide kept things muted during the morning session, and I had to go over the hill for soccer. I got back into town late afternoon and booked to the beach. The Hook and Sharks were good - solid overhead and offshore. Got some great waves with Anthony and watched a beautiful sunset. I checked the buoy that evening and it showed two swells. One at 7.6 feet from 305 at 14 seconds and one at 3 feet from 195 at 17 seconds. Choice and numbers! On Sunday the wind came back from the southeast and dominated. Throughout the first part of the week surfed second bowl and had fun on waist to head high stuff - a little bouncy, but fun. By the middle of the week the swell was small, and I was out of the water with an injury. I watched the waves at the point this morning - it looked fun, real clean, and the sun was shining - but, I was still out with a knee clusterfuck - and work. Hope all had fun! Check out Smiley with the 360 airs! Before the knee session, I was trying a new quad I got from Progression - speeeedy. Now that I am dry, I've got the quad DTs. A couple of quotes I picked up during the last month's turmoil. Said Tom DeLaid - "There's no proof toxics in the air are harmful to people.." During some radio broadcast regarding Katrina - "..Survival isn't about being polite, survival isn't about...." The picture above shows surfing in the Med - Italian style. Look for a gallery set I plan to assemble - in between work surf soccer surf work family soccer food sleep sleep sleep. The folks on top of the rapture concept believe that the latest rash of bad karma coming in the form of natural disasters and war indicate the end is near. For my part, I have always enjoyed predictions made by science fiction writers. They left plenty of room for surfers to survive, surf empty waves, and procreate. In my extrapolation from the natural disasters and war of our times, surfers, being excellent watermen (and women), survive by clinging to Mother Ocean - food and spritualism in abundance. Most of us don't want for much else but waves and something to ride them on - if all else fails, bodysurf. The lyrics below paint such a picture - if you have a chance, listen to the music for effect.
Hurray I awake from yesterday
Alive but the war is here to stay
So my love catherina and me
Decide to take our last walk thru the noise to the sea
Not to die but to be reborn
Away from the lands so battered and torn
Forever, Forever
Oh say can you see it's really such a mess
Every inch of earth is a fighting nest
Giant pencil and lipstick-tube shaped things
Continue to rain and cause screamin' pain
And the arctic stains from silver blue to bloody red
As our feet find the sand
And the sea is straight ahead
Straight up ahead
Well it's too bad our friends can't be with us today
Well it's too bad
The machine that we built
Would never save us that's what they said
That's why they ain't comin' with us today
And they also said it's impossible
For a man to live and breathe underwater
Forever was a main complaint
Yeah and they also threw this in my face they said
Anyway you know good and well
It would be beyond the will of god
And the grace of the king
Grace of the king
So my darling and I make love in the sand
To salute the last moment ever on dry land
Our machine has done it's work played it's part well
Without a scratch on our body when we bid it farewell
Starfish and giant foams greet us with a smile
Before our heads go under we take our last look at the killing noise
Of the out of style
The out of style
So down and down and down and down we go
Hurry my darlin' we mustn't be late
For the show
Neptune champion games to an aqua world is so my dear
Right this way smiles a mermaid
I can hear Atlantis full of cheer
Atlantis full of cheer