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east side blog
11.09.2005
 

Is it Winter Yet?


Somehow I lost my way. I've been working too much, tending to soccer boy, and showing up when either the tide's too high, the crowds are too thick, or it's flat. I am past the point of "I got to get wet". To add further pressure, I've listened to the boyz espouse the stoke of surfing the beaches again, only to stare across the bay longingly. Paul caught me on the way to work the other day while he was on his way to A-frames at the beaches. "let's go" - "naw, I got to go to work" What a pitiful exchange on my part. Well, I've been checking it, and watching the buoys. Seems we've had pulses of steep northwest - 310 to 315 at anywhere from 5 to 12 feet with a short period of about 9 to 12 seconds - sounds like winter. The steepness of the swell knocks off a few feet, so by the time it hits the hook, it's been waist to head high. I've heard Moss has been good and the bars are starting to set up. Taking a left turn - In another testimony to intelligent design, I read that a pastor standing in a pool of water was electrocuted when he grabbed a microphone. I'm sorry, but did he pay attention in science class. The theories of electricity are well established, just like those regarding evolution. The lesson - discount science and you may get burned. Just like those in power like us to think - global warming - no evidence, hole in the ozone layer - no evidence of a problem, air pollution - no proof it harms health. Respect nature, learn the nature of things, live in harmony - that's where the spirit is. Spirit is in everything - everything is not the text of the old testament.
"The more powerful and original a mind, the more it will incline towards the religion of solitude." -Aldous Huxley, novelist (1894-1963) Peace. 
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