The Days Are Short

The days are short and don't leave time for everything that needs to get done. So, you leave things undone with the ambition to proceed tomorrow. Tomorrow. Since I last checked in, there have been many days of decent surf sprinkled with some off days and some days made for LBs only. What has been interesting is that most swells have shown on the weekend. The weekend of November 18 was fun with a swell at 4.9 feet from 295 at 14 seconds. I surfed the Hook and Sharks Thursday through Tuesday and had great fun on the true blue quad. I want to remind penguin that the blue on my board is coherently electromagneticly bitchen. I didn't get back into the water until Thanksgiving Day, when I took Big Green out and surfed little noseriders with Farley and a couple of the boyz. The swell pushed back in on Friday the 25th. Got great waves at Second Bowl - the buoy showed the swell at 9.7 feet from 310 at 14 seconds. The swell continued on Saturday and the offshores began blowing strong. I surfed Second Bowl and Sharks. By the end of the session, I could barely get my feet under me - it was fuckin'freezing. Another swell showed on Monday through Wednesday, and on Thursday it was stormy. I surfed Second Bowl and Sharks during the last swell, and went swimming during Thursday's rain. I checked it today, but never went out. It was waist high and it looked gutless and cold. I understand the White Wash is paying for some goodspeak articles regarding the war. I'm up for that - maybe some payolas for an Iraqi surf report. I'll spin swells like the best southern hemi cyclones. Like "Persian Gulf swells pulling up to the Dunes. Peaks up and down the beach and no one out. Went out with some of the local boyz and pulled into some solid head high barrels. Coffee and a spin on the hukka pipe after the surf." What's disappointing is that we are talking about how we are making their country free so they can speak the truth, yet we pay for bullshit to feed them - and they know it. From one propaganda stream to another - we've shown that we're no better. No matter how hard we try to convince them that their life has improved, I can't imagine that they are even slightly relieved from their daily dose of death and destruction, no running water, no electricity, no sanitation, guns, and war. The spin goes on. He says we stay - Victory in Iraq - what does that mean? Free flow of oil and corporate control of the country? Just like here? The power to command frequently causes failure to think. -Barbara Tuchman, author and historian (1912-1989)  ¶ 10:48 PM