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east side blog
12.13.2005
 

Foam at the Mouth



A gang member, murderer, and author of children's books was just murdered by the State; the families of the victims and law enforcement watching the proceedings. I surfed. For some reason it's hard for me to get behind killing. I struggle killing the mouse that strays into my house - I'm almost free when I kill a rat or a gopher. But, I still feel something - sadness, respect - awe at the life and struggle for life I witness. Justice, revenge - I guess it's up to you. Losing someone close is real, not just part of the animal kingdom. It never goes away and touches you when you least expect it. But for me - the experience of killing those involved with killing my loved ones would do nothing but taint everything I remember. I surf. But of course, do the families of the victims, the loved ones, actually experience killing. Do our elected Feds experience the killing war. I heard it said that if the dead could come back there would be no war - maybe no murder either. I surfed. It was small during the week but the infamous weekend swell showed on Saturday. Got some fun waves at low-tide Sharks sitting just outside the shelf that forms the summertime bowl. The swell was 5 feet from 295 at 14 seconds. The swell was still holding Sunday, but had changed direction, coming more from the north-northwest. Surfed Sharks again, both off the shelf and at the boil. I surfed the waning moments of the swell today, catching some waves at Sharks and 1st bowl. It was way cold and I surfed like it. What say the internet swell oracle? Well I'm sure everyone has heard or experienced the loss of foam. Kinda like if OPEC stopped shipping oil. Panic. One supplier shut down and that one supplier provided 80% of the foam to make surfboards. If you could solidify all the foam coming from people's mouths on the subject you could avert the shortage. When the dust settles - we shall see. One thing for certain; increases in board prices will remain. One more rant. In my last visit, I spoke about our Fearless Leader professing Victory in the war. I wanted to know what he meant. Now I know. There is no meaning. Just a word to manipulate SPB into the following mindtrol: I (Fearless Leader) say Victory many times - Victory=Fearless Leader. Anyone else expressing a different view or strategy regarding the war is a defeatist - all other opinions=defeat. It's not about the right path - it's a dig me video. Whatever. 
Comments:
Hang onto your boards for just a few months and all will be just fine. Those of you who are panicing and steeling boards just incase you think you'll never see one again....cut it out, There's going to be enought for everyone in just a while..everyone stay calm the world as we know it hasen't ended. Yet
 
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