Monday 12 feet at 17 seconds from 295 - the Hook was a blast. The tide was just right for that walled-up blast into third bowl - tube rides with the perfect afternoon lighting - many tube rides. In the early afternoon the crew was moderately sized and in good spirits. By 3:00, the goodwill began to breakdown into feral pissing to establish territorial domain. Oh well, it was still fun. What's new? Well, as if some of us already didn't notice, the fedistration has admitted paying advideo and adwrite firms, as well as "independent" journalists, to doublespeak for them - pushing their opinion on the wet clay of SPB (stupid people breeding). Gee - is this how a majority of AM (american modulation) believed that WMDs existed, or that Iraq was responsible for 9/11? Is this how SPB was moved to displace important matters such as war, education, and the economy with the question of whether gay folks should be allowed to get married? Money buys advid, and advid is where SBP gets their information. You know what money has done on the westside and you know it's at work on the eastside. think deeply and think free - the way we surf.


  ¶ 10:21 PM 0 comments

  Swell-on Thursday was macking and the sets were d-size. Friday was a little bit more tame and packed with the crew. great current for working out those atrophied paddling muscles. Saturday saw another decrease in swell size, but not in the pack - the masses were migrating. Maggots is the term I heard from the unsettled at second bowl. My FM radio is broken so all I can listen to is AM - (American Moderated). I heard our new Sec-o'-State was pissed about a children's program where the two characters (bunny rabbits) were visiting friends that had two mommies. Yes - that's it. The narrator mentioned, in passing, that the household had two mommies. Apparently, some portion of AM assumed that these poor children were being exposed to some perverted sexual escapade. How they came to this assumption is unknown (except that most of AM is SPB and continually spiking on sexual perversion - check out prime time tube). The idea that two women raising children on their own, and teaming up to handle the costs and resources necessary to keep a household was too simple for most to conceive. Much more interesting to imagine two lesbians - but who gives a shit. a loving household is what matters in family. That is not common enough. Rant over - picture this - from KB and his island adventure - middles.


  ¶ 5:44 PM 0 comments

  The Weekend Knowing the weekend was about to turn loose the masses, I went for two go outs on Friday. Got some fun surf and, as through out the swell, got to see some ripping. The swell had dropped slightly, but there were still overhead sets out of the west. Someone thought my comment regarding "east-coast bullshit" (translation: suits and ties, powerspeak - it's all bullshit) had something to do with hating the east coast. Not so - but, this weekend I did find some place to hate - Sacramento - the seat of power - the definition of sprawl. It was foggy all day, 32 during the day and 32 during the night. What made my trip even more enjoyable was my stay at a Holiday Skin. Meanwhile - I heard the crew was soaking in the beautiful winter weather and surfing the leftovers of the first swell of 05. I was in the Sac so that my youngest could complete in a soccer tournament - yes, there is something to do besides surf - but not much. Got home Sunday - left the fog and cold and found a beautiful day closing on the bay. The surf was restrained by the low tide, but showed promise for Monday. Surfed second bowl and sharks today- waist to head high mix of fading ground swell and 12 second wind swell. It was fun. Here's a picture of the last swell of 04 - it wasn't taken in the Sac.


  ¶ 10:21 PM 1 comments

  King The king was crowned today, but I didn't notice. We've had a king-size swell that has kept my attention. All that east-coast bullshit going on - but we sat in the warm sun, snatching great waves. Yesterday was epic - buoy showed 9.7 to 10.9 feet at 17 seconds from 290. Today - it was jacking, 8.3 feet at 14 seconds from 295. All-time, screaming down the line- yes the crowd was sketchy at times. The bros looked tired and satisfied at the end of the day and the sunset was firing. Yes, it is not the islands, but it is home. Far away from the news of the day. It looks like we'll have two or three more days of this swell - and towards the end, who knows? maybe the masses will back off a little and there will be some soul time. You know, you and a couple of your bros trading off and hooting. I hope you guys had fun cranking the first swell of 2005.

  ¶ 10:07 PM 1 comments

  Special Day It was dry for a long, long time, but today the swell picked up. What makes it a special day is that I got to see all my friends, and had plenty of time to visit with them. Dude, seriously - long period (long wait) swell with way too many heated bros. As I watch the buoys, I see the swell is picking up. It went from 8.8 feet at 17 seconds from 290 to 9.5 feet and 14 seconds from 280 in four hours. I also checked the islands and it showed the swell slowly dying. Looks like we have maybe three to four days of ground swell - and then? Will all our friends be surfed out by then? Will the crowd factor begin to get reasonable? Who the fuck knows. Ever notice how the number of challenged surfers exponentially increases during "the swell". Well,I got a couple of waves, but I think the high time was when I was munching on an early season surf then turf then surf barbecue set up by lance - thanks bro - like you said - shouldn't this be fun. It was a beautiful day. The ocean glassed off and the tide came in and really smoothed the sets out. There was a lot of ripping goin' down - remember: burn or be burned. I mentioned the islands last time and the sickness of those who have to go into detail regarding their time there - fuck you. A picture is worth a thousand fuck you-s



  ¶ 11:50 PM 1 comments

  The Islands Two bros have returned from the islands - it's the usual story. Sun, blue water, overhead surf, and of course - "not that crowded". I hate these guys. I'm not only stuck around the block (which I really shouldn't be complaining about), but even the guys going down to the beaches are stinging me - "really fun man, and not that crowded". This winter has been tough. Flat or stormy with the occasional window (not a picture window, but a real small bathroom window). Today, small as yesterday. Day before - the bullshit crew on the cliff asked if I went out. They were gloating like they had just smoked the kine', you know that grin - but shit, I looked and really didn't see anything but phat wind swell peaks just asking to boggggggg. I was dreaming of surf a week ago. But now, being so forgetful, I can't remember enough surf for a dream. Pictures, imitations of surf, will have to do. Some more words to use in the surfblog - epic, righteous, grom, boggin', gnarly, fat, rolling, mushy, session, barge, savage, wired, line up. Dude, seriously - the picture. Who's this mate with the kung fu pose? - nice wave.


  ¶ 10:05 PM 1 comments

  20 Cent Raise In fact, this actually occurred to someone I know - she got a 20 cent raise. That's worse than nothing - a slap in the face. Gee - times are tough and the company can only afford a 20 cent raise. Oh - well you keep it - the company? must need it more than I. As a rolled the phrase around my mouth, I began to like it. That dinner was a 20 cent raise. She has a nice personality, but she's a 20 cent raise. President Bush's tax cuts - a 20 cent raise. And the surf - in between infectious waste draining from the water basins and streets, silt buildup, gale force winds, victory at sea - the ocean has only managed to provide a 20 cent raise. Well, at least as the point's concerned. In my last blog I mentioned that moss was good (Monday 1/3/05). Well, surf was also good at the landing on Tuesday and Wednesday, just smaller. Yes, there were windows I suppose, but nothing more than a 20 cent raise. The storms have brought in (or out) a ton of sand and it's noticeable at the hook - the reef is all but gone and sand is piled up to the cliffs. A friend told me I'm not printing enough surf lingo. I and others who appear on this page are encouraged to use some of the following: stoked, sick, awesome, right on, peeling, totally, mackin', sets, lined up, groove, baaarrled, tubing, peaky, bowl, off the bottom, kook, reeeeling, barney, bars, bitchin, supercaliforniasurfersexpertsontheocean (like mary poppins supercalifragilisticxbealodoucious), glassy, kelpy, ripping, shredding, carving, off the top, hit the lip, roundhouse, late take off, pearl (is this as in diving for pearls?), floaty, drive, rail to rail, hard rail, soft rail, 50/50 rails, longboarder, shortboarder, vertically challenged, and......Every spot has their own stuff. What about the names of surf spots - like drain pipes, tax the church, trees, privates, sand pit, secrets, stone steps, and.......So much to know and so little time. I understand there is a surf dictionary out. It's likely much of this topic is visited in such a dictionary. Well, there are many pictures regarding the tragedy that struck the rim of the Indian Ocean - here is a picture that reveals the force of the ocean, but also shows the promise. Notice the left set up.


  ¶ 6:21 PM 2 comments

  CAN'T WE ALL JUST GET ALONG Well - maybe. let's review some situations later since there's nothing else to do but visualize. At the point, the surf has been blownout, or small, or blownout and small. Of course, there have been windows. Happy glue year! Today, the ocean was glassy with a slight breeze - but the point was pinner. The boyz told me moss was great. I checked the buoy, and it turns out there is an 8 foot swell from 310 at 17 seconds - which means the swell is passing by the point and focusing in at moss - good call boyz. Back to the visualization - you and the rest of the inmates are out at ensenada de tiburon trading places, jockeying for position, the occasional burn, and generally having a good time. It's summer, the waits are long, and the sets are waist to head high with few in-betweeners. You notice a continuous line of foam coming down the stairs and start to feel just a little angst. It's your turn at the next set - the crew is paddling back from the last set, you're on the bowl, and the set is setting up. Suddenly, just as you're getting ready to take off, there's a loud "hey" and you pull out just in time to see an un-named longboarder from 38th slide by. You think "where the fuck did he come from - he wasn't here a minute ago". Maybe it was your near sightedness - with the size of that board, he may have been sitting another 50 yards out and you just didn't see him. More likely, he just paddled out and took off on the first wave he saw. Dude, was he loud. In any case, you regroup and catch a meager in-betweener. You make your first bottom turn, and get ready to race down the line when you discover that the endless line of foam boards has stretched right out into the inside line up. As you speed down the line, several of the foam-core panic and turn their boards perpendicular to your one and only flight path - and you are doing mach 15. As you are in the foam ball becoming intimate with the foam-core and their boards, a leg rope from one of the foam planks wraps around your neck and really gets the veins in your neck pumping. It's at this point you think "can't we all just get along?". As you break the surface, you hear the mayor asking "can't we all just get along?" Stunned, you paddle back out for more - sitting with the crew that, through time and respect, you can get along with. Try this one: you're going left at the spot and some idiot who thinks he's going right and taking off deeper than anyone else is heading right at you........
  ¶ 10:40 PM 3 comments