Senior Daze A small south swell was in the water during the early part of the week and made for some fun waves at sharks. Waves were waist to head high. Ranger Roy and I had a great time on Tuesday - quality sharks with a south and just a few of the bros. Unfortunately, I finally had to get out because I was freeeeezing. I was sooo coooold, I quickly dropped my wetsuit and charged home for a warm shower. As I was driving up 38th, I realized I left without my board. Yes, in a senior daze I left my stick in the lot again. This time Roy came to my rescue. When I came barreling back into the lot, Roy was there smiling - my board in his van. The scary thing is that wasn't the first time. All I can say is: thanks bros - each time I flail -you pick me up. Have you heard about Ted Turner's 10-year plan. Recently, he was being honored for providing the UN with a chunk of cash - one billion dollars. He used his time on the world pulpit to bring attention to the hypocrisy played out by the US in demanding that no country have nuclear weapons, except the US, Europe (because they already have them), countries the US supports (Israel), and those semi-favored by the US that already have the bomb (India, Pakistan). Ted's plan is to diminish nuclear weapon stockpiles 10 percent each year for the next ten years until no country is left with a nuclear arsenal. He admits that there is a possibility a country will hold out and secretly keep a bomb or two, but he feels the benefits outweigh the risk, and that over time, all secrets will be revealed. A deterrent is no good unless you have the will to use it, and if you use it you have lost - what's the point? Something to think about as you sit and wait for those long interval south swells to lift your spirit.

  ¶ 11:47 PM 0 comments

  Spring 2 - Way Cold Over the past week, there has been some fun surf at the point and at the beaches. Wind swell has been on and off, and there has been some south to west-southwest ground swell in the water. Got some fun waves at second bowl during the week, and today, got some fun south swell at sharks. The boyz told me they had some fun days during the week at beer cans. Except for a day or two of rain, the sun's been out - but the wind keeps on blowing. It's been sooooooo coooooooold! My gosh - the water was at least 52F today. The water seems pretty clean, but the first red tide of the year lingered off the point this week. What's with that? Usually, warmer water mixes with sun and an abundance of nutrients to set off a bloom - but the water's not warmer. It did warm up a little last week, but now it's freezing. Apparently, the massive nutrient injection afforded by this season's rains has tipped the balance in favor of algae growth, regardless of water temperature. I see it as an indication that nutrient (shit) loading of the bay was higher than normal - maybe correlated with the high volume of rain for the year. Something else bloomed over the week - our governators propensity for saying what ever he likes. First, he says wants to close the borders of occupied Mexico without thinking about how he got in. Then, he tried to recant his statement by saying that he made a mistake, traced back to his lack of command of the English language. And they (SPB) say he should be our president. Let's go surf!

  ¶ 11:24 PM 1 comments

  Spring 1 The wind continues to howl the breath of spring. I wondered down to the hook on Friday to do some boning when team bocci called me over to make a foursome. Had a fun time, and as we were playing, the waves were calling - small, mostly gutless wind swell - but what a beautiful day. After the game, I had a small window for surf before I had to grab the sand crab for soccer practice. Turned out to be a fun seniors session with Roy, Rick, goose, and retired mike. Meanwhile, the mayor dipped in bronze. Saturday was filled in by washing cars in Watsonville and finally winning a baseball game (the other team was shittier than us). Sunday was packed in town so I hid at home. That brings me to Monday. Surfed the hook and got some fun wind swell mixed with steep northwest ground swell. Another beautiful day - windy and the upwelling is freezing. Saw penguin at sharks, and heard he and another got some fun waves with half the load as the hook. I understand the demorats are attacking people of faith. I have not heard what faith these people adhere to, but if it's surfing - I'm mobilizing. I've noticed a lot of new faces in the water. Are these heathenistic demorats? They have been attacking my faith - and it's pissing me off. My sacred alter has been speared twice in the last month by these nameless heathens. Will hard-core believers stand up and rid our hallowed place of worship of the masses who are invading our faith? See you at church -

  ¶ 10:18 PM 1 comments

  You're Being Schooled Wind swell and steep north ground swell have been daily fare for the past few days. This means the waves at the top of the point have been fair - and fat, while further down the point, the size and frequency of waves drops. Saturday was fun on the incoming tide at second bowl, with some waves walling up through third bowl. During the week, the wind swell has produced mostly gutless second bowl peaks. At least I got wet. The daily dose of wind has enhanced the upwelling in the bay and the water is coooold. Quite a contrast to baking on the beach. The crew claim there have been some fun LB days at sharks - and charlie told me he got a few fun lefts. Looks like more of the same in the near future. I read this article that describes how media labels end up regurgitating government propaganda - and the media don't even realize they're doing it. As part of the research for the article, the author used google to show that the label "controversial" attached to his name got 58 hits while the label "patriotic" got zero. The author feels his work is patriotic, but apparently the media, of which he is a member, do not. Another example illustrates how Islamic leaders are labeled "clerics", while Jerry Farwell and the like are "ministers" - both religious leaders, but "cleric" implies "foreign and radical" to the masses. How about "antiwar firebrand" Howard Dean - did you hear anything about "pro-war crusader" GW? The author states "Loaded labels are commonly used to influence the public's feelings about groups of people as well as individuals". Repetition is key. Just listen to the labels being used to marginalize those opposed to the social security scam, the nuclear option, or the opinion of ward churchill. Insurgents or freedom fighters? We're being schooled. I guess I'm guilty too. The label "mayor" suggests leadership, consensus, and looking out for the community - "shoulder-hopper" implies wave hog, selfishness, and general kookdom. Have I swayed the masses into thinking the cave dweller is more? Maybe not - I heard the label used by a longtime point resident who I trust to know what's right with what's wrong. The cave dweller has earned it. Keep working on your sun tan - adios.
  ¶ 11:15 PM 0 comments

  One Day Surf out front has stayed relatively small, even though there was a north swell at 14 seconds. Unfortunately, the swell direction is pretty steep for the point - especially below first peak. As one of the crew put it, "the swell is coming from the northeast". I surfed on Tuesday and got some fun waves - small, but it was a beautiful day. After a few slides, I got distracted by the boyz holding court on the rock at shark's. Sure enough, the mayor, lance, charlie, chili, et. al. were grooving on the day with a trademark 'cue by lance. Burgers never tasted so good - fresh out of the water, burger in hand - what next? Well, how about a game of extreme beach bacci ball, followed by some low tide boning. Later that evening, I capped the day off with a baseball game between 13/14 year old Pony leaguers. The wonderful day got me thinking about what's important. If you had one day to live, how would you live it? Some work, surf, friends, family, sex, more surf, food, great views, music, art, literature......could you fit it all in, and be satisfied at the end of your term. Thankfully, we have more than one day, but I am trying to live every day like it is One Day. Is there room for TV? Maybe- surf stoke, good flick, debate, information, baseball...I've decided to measure the worth of an endeavor against the One Day question. I know I won't always be successful - but I'm going to try my hardest. So, is writing this blog worth it? I think so. It makes me recount the day, relive the highlights, and think deeply about it's course. Pictures like the one below allow us to capture things that are part of One Day and relive what's important. It's making art, viewing art, and visualizing One Day. See ya in the water.

  ¶ 11:35 PM 0 comments

  Bush III North-northwest wind swell and off-shore to light winds have provided some fun gutless surf through a stint of weather. Out in front it has been small, but the beaches have shown promise. Unfortunately - or fortunately as the case may be - the surf has been unremarkable and Easter vacation misfits still abound. Nonetheless, getting in the water is always a good time. My title concerns how the spectacle surrounding a poor woman's demise is being used in a covert way to further the Bush dynasty. Think about it - Bush the Third - the emperor needs no cloths because SPB are blind. In turn, our repressed - I mean representitives - are blind - blind to the fact that the voters don't want the government involved in family affairs and, according to a recent poll, don't want nuclear weapons in the hands of any government - including the US. The emperor-father and his legion know what's best for us even if we don't. It's all too much to think about when the sun is shining and the beach is calling. Seriously, is Bruce is thinking about it?
  ¶ 12:18 AM 0 comments