Time Goes Mach 3 Time goes Mach 3 when you're having fun. Since my last log, I took the plank gliding at second bowl, surfed with Paul on a fun day-long south/windswell mix at sharks, and hit Friday follies with a west-northwest groundswell showing at second bowl. The weekend was smaller and the crowds were bigger. I hope the fun that has been May continues. My last rant ended with a plea to remove labels from our discussion on immigration. I explained that labels hurt the discourse. To see if these labels are out in the public domain, and if they had an influence, I did a Google search. I found that "illegal" Mexicans resulted 291,000 hits, while "immigrant" Mexicans garnered 155,000 hits. It seems that "illegal" Mexicans are more visible. Before I go further into the questions I originally posed regarding the immigration of Mexicans into the US, I thought it might be helpful to look at the history of the Mexican/US border. I was speaking about this subject to Cal - who can name the spices and phylum of the animals you were reef-walking on, and he was a little mixed up on the facts concerning how Mexican-California became a US possession. It was his view that the Mexican Government just signed California away before the Mexican/American War took place. I insisted that the Mexican/American War was just a ploy used in America's land grab campaign, and that California was the prize. Simple internet research set me straight. In my next log, I will provide the address to a web page that answers all these questions (I'm sure you care) and summarize some border history. In the mean time - surf! I am.

  ¶ 12:23 AM 1 comments

  South Goes South The south swell streak is over. I surfed small hook, catching mostly wind swell. No worries- it was a beautiful day and logs glide on the smallest of waves. There is a rumor going around that another south is due by the weekend. What's with the south swell/weekend collision. Oh well - last Saturday was great - maybe the same this weekend. My last rant ended with answers to the question of what is an illegal Mexican and are most Mexicans in this country illegal. My answer was a vision of what some folks east of the Santa Cruz mountains must be thinking. The problem is right up front. Labels - labels that make people believe folks crossing the border are law breakers from Mexico. These labels illicit emotional responses toward Mexicans and a host of generalities - like all Mexicans are illegal. The labels handicap and even corrupt the discussion before it even gets started. I haven't heard the label "law breaking" businesses in discussions regarding all the industries that employ "illegal Mexicans". First, we must get rid of the labels. How about immigrants? That's what this country is - that's what this country's going to be. More on this topic later; now for the small stuff from the surf ranch.

  ¶ 11:50 PM 0 comments

  Week's South Since my last log entry, south swell has been the norm. As I write tonight, the south swell continues at 2.4 feet from 190 at 14 seconds. Surfed sharks all week - some days relatively uncrowded. In fact, on the day I least expected to get empty sharks - saturday - I surfed the evening session with cable gary and a few ornaments. It was epic - head high to overhead sets from a building south, perfect tide, glassy, and no one on the bowl but a bro. I didn't go out sunday, but I saw great waves in the morning - and then the storm wind came up. Today's waves were a mix of south and wind swell. I watched penguin surf sharks by himself. Junot was thinking about it and I was too spoiled from the previous week to surf the mix - decided to wait. On the down side for the week, I borrowed a friend's twin and on the third wave popped the future fin box out. I know I should never barrow a board! Heck - I could have even left it in the lot. Now for my latest rant. I understand many in our country are blaming Mexicans for their poor economic plight. Yes- as I have said before, it's the American way to blame someone or something else. The consensus in Arkansas, as well as many other red states, is that most Mexicans are illegal, that these illegals are taking jobs red-blooded Americans could have, they are driving down wages, they don't speak English, and they're using public services without paying for them. Over the next few log entries, I am going to discuss these issues in an attempt to understand the positions held by these freedom-loving patriots. Of course I'm biased - I still believe California is occupied Mexico. But I've got to try and reach out. First - what is an illegal Mexican and are most Mexicans in this country illegal? I suppose after the grand land grab that made this country what it is today, the haves decided to throttle down the influx of newcomers. Resources needed to be conserved for those already here. Laws were passed that set up standards and requirements under which newcomers would be welcome. These standards and requirements have changed over time (selectively modified?). When we needed brain power, those strong in science were allowed in (for example, builders of the first nuclear weapons). When labor was needed, various ethnic groups were allowed in - Chinese, Irish, Italians (my grandfather). Those with wealth or power have little trouble gaining entry (Arnie). Many Mexicans were already here - artifacts of pre-land grab history. But now, because of the opportunity afforded them by American business, those stranded on the other side of the line want in - legally or illegally. It's likely that many would not be allowed into this country legally given current politics (whatever the current standard and requirement is). So - they don't enter according to the law and wind up in the general Latin population - as the saying goes - if one's illegal, they all are - simple. I mean, how can you tell? So, an illegal Mexican is any Latino or Latina and their children, all of whom crossed the line in the sand without meeting the current standards and requirements. It doesn't matter if they're really citizens whose families where here before the land grab - they're still from over the line. - Wow! Now that I understand what an illegal is - how about some surf.

  ¶ 12:22 AM 0 comments

  Domains Well, after Penguin told me I had another senior moment regarding my stereo post. I defended myself by blaming the software. It's the American way to point the finger. Heck, the governator blamed English, the president blamed intelligence, people of faith blame the demonrats, and everyone blames the terrorists. Surfed sharks today; low tide south mixed with west-northwest. Dane and Packman rallied some fun ones too. As I was waiting for those infrequent sets to roll in, I considered the problem I see whereby the government is becoming too intrusive. I think there is too much confusion between what is in the government domain and what is in the religious domain. It seems the founders of our government meant to protect our rights and freedoms through a rule of law that is rooted in respecting each other. Laws that work to protect our rights and freedoms are in the government domain. Laws that protect me from corporations interested in abusing my rights and freedoms are in the government domain. On the other hand, laws that restrict consenting adults from oral sex are not in the government domain (laws still on the books in some states and in the military) - maybe such laws are in the religious domain - but the government should protect my privacy - not invade it. Similarly, laws that prohibit same-sex marriage should not be in the government domain - these laws do not protect our rights or freedoms. Religions may outlaw same-sex marriages. Indeed, such laws belong in the religious domain. For me - separation of church and state is all about making sure that what belongs in the religious domain does not enter into the government domain - period. As a country, do we need to recite "one nation under God"? Is that in the government domain? Can we be one nation of various religions that may or may not be into God? One nation under yin and yang? I hope the wave frequency picks up - I've had too much time between sets.

  ¶ 9:10 PM 0 comments

  From the West, From the South The swell picked up, catching many by surprise. Ground swell out of the south - 3 feet from 190 at 17 seconds and ground swell from the west - 3 feet from 240 at 14 seconds. When I first looked at the ocean, the tide was low with only about five guys out at the Hook. I waited for some water and went out at sharks. The wait was long, but got some great sliders charging down the line. I couldn't surf Saturday - car wash fundraising, baseball game, and 'cue. I heard the south was still fun. After a drive to Soledad and back for soccer (prison town sure has changed), I surfed fun sharks with the south still holding. After surf, I went to a Greek Easter party - those folks really know how to eat. I saw the bocci tournament went well for Goose - caught lance finishing up the beach 'cue, and although he said he had a hangover all day, I'm sure the food was great. So far the spring has held good swell and cold water - hope the swells stays. Did you see the President on the visual translator (VT)? Either did I- who the fuck cares - except the MEDIA (Monosource Exposure to Diverse Information without Accuracy) - Catch ya in the water -

  ¶ 11:34 PM 0 comments