east side blog
Ranching

It's been a while. I last surfed Monday, the 18th. Swell was a mix of northwest and south - strange for summer, but fun. Of course the session did not go without incident - it's summer time. As I was about to take off on a wave at second bowl, a greenhorn paddled under me, oblivious to my postioning. I pulled out, which put me on the back of the wave. From on top I watched the kook deep-six his board up to his jaw. It was then I realized his board may tombstone right into me or my board. I could do nothing because I was balanced on the back of the wave. Sure enough, the board shot right into my leg - it fuckin' hurt and I still have the bump. I told the idiot to get lost, but of course he didn't know what I was taking about. I mean, he didn't feel anything. The next day I left for Colorado to help pop with his ranch - hence the title. Learned about water rights, irrigation for hay farming, what hay is, and met plenty of folks who are the roots. Some are the branches, some are the leaves, some are the roots. Great landscapes past me by as I crossed four states. Wildlife and Motel 6 life. I got back into town and immeadiately hit the surf. Caught the end of a south swell at sharks - got some fun waves. Of course, I got hit again as another of a long list of kooks dropped in on me as I made mach 6 going down the line. Same leg - the shin this time. Yes - I asked him to leave. Now I am in pre-emptive mode. If they even look like they can hurt me, I'm not waiting. The picture I included is from some friends who recently visited the West Bank. Not much surf in the Dead Sea, but man can you float. While our media outlets have no problem providing reams of propaganda regarding Israel, we get precious little regarding the Palestinians - other than they are terrorists. I'm working on posting the story of a visit with the Palestinians by some folks from the East Side. It's great stuff- stay ready. It might be like waiting for a south swell set.

I left town on Thursday for the land of extreme hot and cold. At the time, the swell was waist to chest high out of the west-northwest - kind of a weird angle for summer. Got some fun waves at second bowl and sharks, but, as we all know, the swell was to hit Thursday/Friday. I rolled into town this morning , and hit the glide at second bowl and sharks. I was told the swell did materialize - just not with the gusto anticipated. I had fun - got a great view of penguin on the nose while his wake battered my forehead. Also attempted my first noseride tee-bone flip maneuver. This move entails taking off on a solid waist high down-the-line sharks skate ramp, running up to the nose, and attempting to nose ride while some kook paddles under the board. The subsequent tee-bone impact allows the wave rider to leave the nose of his board with enough velocity to enter a low orbit and complete a flip before entering the water. Damage to the board is expected, but it wasn't too bad for my first attempt. Thanks to the unnamed kook for their assistance. Nice to meet peter and scruffy in the water today - two kids that have been showing up at second bowl and the hook. They surf well, and have the right kind of vibe. Collen "the kid" was ripping on his twin today, and Oil Can Mike had Mocha dig up sand castles. Well, I left town and missed the epic swell for a trip to Sacramento - as I understand, not the home of Arnie - and I know why. The place sucks. It's way too hot in the summer - just stay inside and chill. And in the winter, it's way too cold - just stay inside and keep warm. It seems if it were not for a handy environmental shell - like a house, car, office, shopping mall, or bar with air conditioning and heating, you couldn't live there. It must get nice for a couple of days around the spring equinox. You've got to wonder whose idea it was to move the Spanish/Mexican capital of California from Monterey to Sacramento - once California became part of the USA. What a moron. Next subject - Have you ever heard "your information is secure with us" while filling out forms for banks, school, medical, insurance, internet, etc. Well, forget it. I read Citigroup blamed UPS for losing files on 50,000 customers - oops. Bank of America lost tapes containing data on 1.2 million government employees - sorry. The stories go on. Identity theft - can't imagine. So next time your providing your "personal" information, don't worry, it's already out in the ether. Penguin - stay on your seat - or - how about a guest log entry? I'm sure you have a rant or two. Hey - I heard someone called the cops on junk for pulling on their leash - dude seriously - stay wet amigos.
Summer Slow Down

Well after two south swells, the southern-hemi wave machine has taken a break. Its been small to non-existent. Over the holiday I went down to the folks house around the Bay. I took my surf stuff, remembering a 4th of July beach break that always had waves over the holiday. Sure enough - scored some great beach break peaks in clear water over very white sand. Shoulder to head high - I had the LB but it was SB conditions. Couple of cover-ups and a few hits - it was fun. The next morning there were still waves, but a bit smaller and way more crowded - it was a holiday. If I was going to surf with a crowd, I decided I would go home and surf - plenty of crowd there. I took my LB out to first bowl, knee high and millions of decoys - 4th of July fireworks on every wave. Today, it appeared as if the waves had picked up - slightly. Had fun on the glide at second bowl with the Mayor, Terry, Dave, and Pat. Maybe tomorrow. Now some numbers. Time reports that illegal immigrants paid $7 billion into Social Security - even though they will not receive benefits. They estimate that 10% of last year's SS surplus was made up of taxes paid by illegal immigrants. Time also reported that illegal immigrants paid $1.5 billion in taxes for medicare - which they are ineligible to receive. Also consider they pay rent (pay property taxes) and buy goods and services (sales taxes, utility taxes, gasoline taxes and fees). I'm not sure, but it appears illegal immigrants are paying some portion of their fair share. And I don't think they have time to join the masses in the water. See ya!
Like Rats to the Piper

No sooner than the south swell hit on June 20th, rumors began about the south swell predicted for Sunday, June 26th. In between sets last Tuesday, the rumor gained momentum. Within the sphere of surfing Santa Cruz (greater metropolitan Bay Area), Sunday June 26th, was becoming fabled - "it's gonna be better than this swell". Well, Sunday rolled around and the masses turned out in droves. Swelling at the edge of the Point, they were undaunted by the fact that the swell had not materialized as rumored. While the buoys showed a strong south in the water, 3.9 feet from 180/190 at 17 seconds, the steep angle kept the size and consistency down. The masses leapt from the cliff, following the piper all the way. I managed to get fun waves between long waits on Saturday evening, Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday - I sat out Thursday. The best part was being with my youngest son as he began to fire the surf stoke within. He's got a funky wet suit and a great boogie board by way of goose, and all the stoke you can have. And in between surf sessions, he's playing soccer and hanging with the sharks brotherhood. Thanks guys for looking after him. It's been quiet out in the sharks lineup - who's missing? Penguin? What about Graphic Mike? Saw you out there Skinny - also Ranger Roy, "the kid" (collin), terry, the Mayor, Rachel (nicknames for girls?), Robin, MJ, Chili, and - I guess I got out about then. I've been riding my new fish from Progression (Seacliff76) - soooo bosssss! Back to border history. Once the US had control over California, New Mexico, and Texas, it was ready to negotiate. At first the Congress didn't want to negotiate because of the stipulation by Polk that slavery would not be allowed in the new land. Finally, the US Army seized Mexico City and negotiations were not necessary. In 1848, the Treaty of Guadalupe-Hidalgo was signed. Mexico was to give up about half of its territory - modern-day California, Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, and parts of Colorado, Nevada, and Utah. In return, the US paid $15 million in compensation for war-related damage to Mexican land. Then the fun started. The Senate ratified parts of the treaty, but erased the part that guaranteed protection of land grants and watered-down a part that dealt with citizen rights. In Texas, Mexicans couldn't vote and in California laws were passed against them - Greaser Laws. By the end of the 19th century, most Mexicans had lost their land by force or fraud. The land grab became complete - piece by piece. Please investigate before making your own mind up. I've heard some say "they're taking away our culture" - but history suggests they are our culture. Look around California for example. Los Angeles, El Camino Real, San Francisco - on and on. You can't go anywhere in the southwestern US and not see the Mexican aspect of our culture. Get real Bay! Next time I will talk about $numbers$. In the meantime, get wet.