east side blog
Monday, August 29, 2005
Rally
Surfed sharks today - waist to chest high and fun. Collin pulled the righteous layback on his twin - I love that move. It was a mellow session, quite a relief from the surf school madness. The south swell looks like it's dropping, but wind swell may fill in behind. Tonight the buoy shows 1.9 feet from 180. While the surf school madness may be attenuating, it is not time to forget. The surf school's uncool rally is being held on September 5, 2005. Meet at the hook at 10:00 am to start off the festivities. Also consider donating some of your artful talent at Gustov "Goose" Brown's compound on Sunday, September 4, 2005 - signs will be made to get the message out during the rally. I realize that after today's lull in surf school action, that the feeling may fade. Just in case, visualize charging down the line until all of a sudden a foamy comes tombstoning out of the white water toward your head - that might get you in the mood.
Surfed sharks today - waist to chest high and fun. Collin pulled the righteous layback on his twin - I love that move. It was a mellow session, quite a relief from the surf school madness. The south swell looks like it's dropping, but wind swell may fill in behind. Tonight the buoy shows 1.9 feet from 180. While the surf school madness may be attenuating, it is not time to forget. The surf school's uncool rally is being held on September 5, 2005. Meet at the hook at 10:00 am to start off the festivities. Also consider donating some of your artful talent at Gustov "Goose" Brown's compound on Sunday, September 4, 2005 - signs will be made to get the message out during the rally. I realize that after today's lull in surf school action, that the feeling may fade. Just in case, visualize charging down the line until all of a sudden a foamy comes tombstoning out of the white water toward your head - that might get you in the mood.
Sunday, August 28, 2005
Overnight
It's strange how weeks pass without a swell, then as if by magic, a swell arrives overnight. I'm not sure why, but it seems swells always arrive while we are sleeping - like Santa. I can count the number of times I've seen a swell come in during my waking hours on my two hands. Anyway, a swell arrived out of the south. The buoys show 2.3 feet at 14 seconds from 190. The hook looked fun, but the tide was pushing the envelope most of the day. I didn't surf today - once again soccer pushed my surf window into the high-tide ventura. No worries. I watched first bowl for awhile and saw some of the boyz having a good time. Unfortunately for the Mayor, the tide pushed his loose board onto the rocks for his first ding on the new glide - split the rail. Maybe he'll let me ride it now. Someone email me the jest of the surf school's uncool meeting, and I'll post. Also, if you have comments, but no venue - email me and I'll get your message to the surf school's uncool committee. I'm running low on salt - see ya in the water. I'm leaving you with some art that reflects freedom on captivity.
It's strange how weeks pass without a swell, then as if by magic, a swell arrives overnight. I'm not sure why, but it seems swells always arrive while we are sleeping - like Santa. I can count the number of times I've seen a swell come in during my waking hours on my two hands. Anyway, a swell arrived out of the south. The buoys show 2.3 feet at 14 seconds from 190. The hook looked fun, but the tide was pushing the envelope most of the day. I didn't surf today - once again soccer pushed my surf window into the high-tide ventura. No worries. I watched first bowl for awhile and saw some of the boyz having a good time. Unfortunately for the Mayor, the tide pushed his loose board onto the rocks for his first ding on the new glide - split the rail. Maybe he'll let me ride it now. Someone email me the jest of the surf school's uncool meeting, and I'll post. Also, if you have comments, but no venue - email me and I'll get your message to the surf school's uncool committee. I'm running low on salt - see ya in the water. I'm leaving you with some art that reflects freedom on captivity.
Thursday, August 18, 2005
Steep but Satisfying
The south swell began hitting the point and the hook yesterday. The buoys showed the swell coming in at 3 feet from 180 at 14 seconds - way steep. I took the LB out and showed real patience through the long waits for a couple of glides at sharks. Today the swell was a little bigger and more consistent, but the buoys still showed it coming in from a steep south angle. In any case, I got to use the SB all day and had a great time (except for the constant disrespect shown by LB idiots dropping in down the line). My new Progression Quad fish is real fun even on small waves - if the waves have punch. Penguin - how's your new Junot? I understand you've been on the north coast ripping it with the pros. Overhead bowls while we grovel in town. I guess that most of you that check in here have heard the Mayor's proposal to rally around the flag against the surf school invasion. I've made my thoughts on surf schools known. If you must commercialize a tribal tradition steeped in lore, ritual, and brotherhood - go for it. But, don't bring it raining down on us - not on our sacred alter. Surf school teachers and operators - that's not how you got it. The mayor has plenty of support - we all have stories of our day being trashed by SS students or former students. Yesterday, one of the instructors asked me about what was going on - I told him and asked if he was going to contribute to a solution. He had some ideas - some that may work. But why did it wait until we were left with no alternatives. They just tried to overwhelm us. Surfing has always tried to remain outside the governmentinstitutionalestablishment. We don't want their suits and ties dictating our scene - However, in working to involve the County via ordinance, we are succumbing to their methods. Black Ball, lifeguards, patrols, fair, talent/experience doesn't matter. Maybe a meeting and show of solidarity will be enough to bring the stakeholders to the table. Wouldn't it be nice to come to an agreement without the governmentinstitutionalestablishment? Can it be done? Or is money bigger than our precious tradition. I believe that those into selling the surf can do it without compromising our cathedral. In the end, I'm with the tribe - win or lose. Watch this page for more information on the time and place for meeting(s) and rally(s).
The south swell began hitting the point and the hook yesterday. The buoys showed the swell coming in at 3 feet from 180 at 14 seconds - way steep. I took the LB out and showed real patience through the long waits for a couple of glides at sharks. Today the swell was a little bigger and more consistent, but the buoys still showed it coming in from a steep south angle. In any case, I got to use the SB all day and had a great time (except for the constant disrespect shown by LB idiots dropping in down the line). My new Progression Quad fish is real fun even on small waves - if the waves have punch. Penguin - how's your new Junot? I understand you've been on the north coast ripping it with the pros. Overhead bowls while we grovel in town. I guess that most of you that check in here have heard the Mayor's proposal to rally around the flag against the surf school invasion. I've made my thoughts on surf schools known. If you must commercialize a tribal tradition steeped in lore, ritual, and brotherhood - go for it. But, don't bring it raining down on us - not on our sacred alter. Surf school teachers and operators - that's not how you got it. The mayor has plenty of support - we all have stories of our day being trashed by SS students or former students. Yesterday, one of the instructors asked me about what was going on - I told him and asked if he was going to contribute to a solution. He had some ideas - some that may work. But why did it wait until we were left with no alternatives. They just tried to overwhelm us. Surfing has always tried to remain outside the governmentinstitutionalestablishment. We don't want their suits and ties dictating our scene - However, in working to involve the County via ordinance, we are succumbing to their methods. Black Ball, lifeguards, patrols, fair, talent/experience doesn't matter. Maybe a meeting and show of solidarity will be enough to bring the stakeholders to the table. Wouldn't it be nice to come to an agreement without the governmentinstitutionalestablishment? Can it be done? Or is money bigger than our precious tradition. I believe that those into selling the surf can do it without compromising our cathedral. In the end, I'm with the tribe - win or lose. Watch this page for more information on the time and place for meeting(s) and rally(s).
Monday, August 15, 2005
Rat or Vole
With the lack of surf, I have been busy working - Allah forbid! With my extra time, I've been spending summer with my youngest son - having a blast. Soccer tournaments, swimming to keep in surf shape, and researching the curious rodents that inhabit the cliff at the hook. Some say they are rats - others call them voles. My own research indicates that the vermin scurrying about the cliff are voles. Notice their raceways through the weeds and grass - typical of the California Vole. I've included a picture for reference. Well, I went surfing today. Surf was ankle- to thigh-high with sets penis-high (or whatever your crotch holds). Used my SB, but it was hurting because the waves were high-tide phat. Got one little one that allowed four turns. I wonder if you heard the latest doublespeak from the leadership. Apparently, Mr. Bolton completed a form that asked if he had testified within the last year at any hearings. He stated no. Then, it was revealed that six months earlier he had testified to a grand jury investigating some string connected to all the other strings that weave the fabric of deceit that is the trademark of our current group of talking heads. We were told he didn't lie, he just mistakenly forgot. When asked about the oversight in hearings - he stated he mistakenly told the committe that he did not testify within the last year. I like the many flavors of the english language. So useful. Bolton got in anyway via the backdoor. Latest on the hit count for "struggle against violent extremism: S.A.V.E. - up from 121,000 to 173,000. Rumors of surf jump from surfer to surfer like wildfire - imagine what that first day will be like - everyone you know, everyone you don't know, the internet and cell-phone photos spewing out the word - I can't wait. Still working on East Side meets West Bank - might be better than surfing that first day of the swell - whenever it shows. See ya in the water.
With the lack of surf, I have been busy working - Allah forbid! With my extra time, I've been spending summer with my youngest son - having a blast. Soccer tournaments, swimming to keep in surf shape, and researching the curious rodents that inhabit the cliff at the hook. Some say they are rats - others call them voles. My own research indicates that the vermin scurrying about the cliff are voles. Notice their raceways through the weeds and grass - typical of the California Vole. I've included a picture for reference. Well, I went surfing today. Surf was ankle- to thigh-high with sets penis-high (or whatever your crotch holds). Used my SB, but it was hurting because the waves were high-tide phat. Got one little one that allowed four turns. I wonder if you heard the latest doublespeak from the leadership. Apparently, Mr. Bolton completed a form that asked if he had testified within the last year at any hearings. He stated no. Then, it was revealed that six months earlier he had testified to a grand jury investigating some string connected to all the other strings that weave the fabric of deceit that is the trademark of our current group of talking heads. We were told he didn't lie, he just mistakenly forgot. When asked about the oversight in hearings - he stated he mistakenly told the committe that he did not testify within the last year. I like the many flavors of the english language. So useful. Bolton got in anyway via the backdoor. Latest on the hit count for "struggle against violent extremism: S.A.V.E. - up from 121,000 to 173,000. Rumors of surf jump from surfer to surfer like wildfire - imagine what that first day will be like - everyone you know, everyone you don't know, the internet and cell-phone photos spewing out the word - I can't wait. Still working on East Side meets West Bank - might be better than surfing that first day of the swell - whenever it shows. See ya in the water.
Wednesday, August 03, 2005
Happy Birthday
The last week has seen small knee to waist high south swell with the occasional - long wait - chest high set. Been on the glide through the week, but I finally broke out the SB for a couple of waves after the last glide session. Conditions have been beautiful, but gosh - if it isn't crowded enough, the surf schools push it over the top. At least half of the waves I got at sharks during the week included runs through a hazards course. The course consists of kooks paddling in your way, kooks sitting in your way, kooks dropping in on you, kooks throwing their boards out at you, and general kook clusterfucks. It's kookdom. I'm still mystified as to why they can't learn by riding the whitewater. Instead, they paddle out to the bowl and create a safety hazard. Have you seen the Mayor's new glideride - wow! When can I try it? And Rick, how is your self inflected plastic surgery doing. Do you really think you'll make the next issue of GQ? I'm sure - 27 stitches when a couple of butterflies would have done the job. Wimp. There's no way you're going to look as good as Terry (Fabio). Today is my mother's birthday. She would have been 71 - but checked out before her time via an auto accident. She always kept me by the beach, supported my surf stoke from the beginning, and gave me most of what I am. She and I got SCUBA certified and dove together, she got me to ride horses, kept me swimming when the surf wasn't happening, was my best hippy friend, taught me the wonders of classical music, made sure I played music, played the best of SF music during the 60's, gave me rides to and from the beach, turned me on to science, science fiction, and fantasy, and kept me in Catholic school. I miss her today - I wish she could share the life she gave me. That's the tragedy of the stupid war - mothers and sons missing out on sharing their lives together - part of the collateral damage. Fuck you guys sitting in high places doling out the future for others! I've started an experiment to follow the doublespeak of this war. I understand the WhiteWash is beginning to change the propaganda - a move from "war on terror" to "struggle against violent extremism". In my mind, the WhiteWash is just this side of extreme. Anyway, I plan on following the change by sampling Google. On July 29, 2005 WOT got 23,100,000 hits, while SAVE got 121,000. The WhiteWash is going to SAVE the world. On another note, sounds like we'll have a new Justice before long. The guy doesn't sound too bad, but this quote suggests a careless and less than understanding view of nature. In a rendering he stated "a hapless toad, for reasons of its own, lives its entire life in one state...". Strange - an unlucky toad - who by its own reasoning - decided to get in the way of the State. From tadpole to toad - never thought to pickup and move. He was making a living of it, but then the State came in and took his livelihood. For reasons of his own? Decided to - protest? I'm still working on the West Bank presentation - good things take time. Dwell on this in the mean time.
The last week has seen small knee to waist high south swell with the occasional - long wait - chest high set. Been on the glide through the week, but I finally broke out the SB for a couple of waves after the last glide session. Conditions have been beautiful, but gosh - if it isn't crowded enough, the surf schools push it over the top. At least half of the waves I got at sharks during the week included runs through a hazards course. The course consists of kooks paddling in your way, kooks sitting in your way, kooks dropping in on you, kooks throwing their boards out at you, and general kook clusterfucks. It's kookdom. I'm still mystified as to why they can't learn by riding the whitewater. Instead, they paddle out to the bowl and create a safety hazard. Have you seen the Mayor's new glideride - wow! When can I try it? And Rick, how is your self inflected plastic surgery doing. Do you really think you'll make the next issue of GQ? I'm sure - 27 stitches when a couple of butterflies would have done the job. Wimp. There's no way you're going to look as good as Terry (Fabio). Today is my mother's birthday. She would have been 71 - but checked out before her time via an auto accident. She always kept me by the beach, supported my surf stoke from the beginning, and gave me most of what I am. She and I got SCUBA certified and dove together, she got me to ride horses, kept me swimming when the surf wasn't happening, was my best hippy friend, taught me the wonders of classical music, made sure I played music, played the best of SF music during the 60's, gave me rides to and from the beach, turned me on to science, science fiction, and fantasy, and kept me in Catholic school. I miss her today - I wish she could share the life she gave me. That's the tragedy of the stupid war - mothers and sons missing out on sharing their lives together - part of the collateral damage. Fuck you guys sitting in high places doling out the future for others! I've started an experiment to follow the doublespeak of this war. I understand the WhiteWash is beginning to change the propaganda - a move from "war on terror" to "struggle against violent extremism". In my mind, the WhiteWash is just this side of extreme. Anyway, I plan on following the change by sampling Google. On July 29, 2005 WOT got 23,100,000 hits, while SAVE got 121,000. The WhiteWash is going to SAVE the world. On another note, sounds like we'll have a new Justice before long. The guy doesn't sound too bad, but this quote suggests a careless and less than understanding view of nature. In a rendering he stated "a hapless toad, for reasons of its own, lives its entire life in one state...". Strange - an unlucky toad - who by its own reasoning - decided to get in the way of the State. From tadpole to toad - never thought to pickup and move. He was making a living of it, but then the State came in and took his livelihood. For reasons of his own? Decided to - protest? I'm still working on the West Bank presentation - good things take time. Dwell on this in the mean time.