Listen to the Message

I re-examined my situation, adjusted my priorities, paid respect to the deities, and went surfing. Caught waves beginning last Thursday when I took my new - the Mayor's old - cruiser out. The Green Plank turned out to be great fun and I gained a new appreciation for nose time. As usual, the swell parked at the point on Saturday, and with a contest at first peak, the Hook reached critical mass early. I waited until the late afternoon and surfed second bowl and sharks. I got some fun waves riding my blue fish - a board conceived way before penguin got his kinda-blue quasi-fish with a trailer. The Saturday swell was 12 feet at 14 seconds from 315. Needless to say, a swell that steep loses some size wrapping into the point. By the time the swell hit the Hook, it was shoulder to a little overhead. There were some good overhead sets, but I sat on the inside. Sunday provided the same but smaller. I went out at low tide and was able to grab some waves at sharks before the LB crew came and conquered. Yesterday, I went down for a surf, but it was kinda small. Nevertheless, I was witness to surfer's providence - listen to the message. As a testimonial to the structural integrity of a Surftech, I watched a surftech batter an LB and come away without a scratch. Here is what I saw. An LB-helmeted member of the SPB legion dropped in on one of the boyz, exposing the bottom of his board to the Mach-5 surfer behind him. As if in solidarity with the crew, the wave grabbed the surftech from the crew member and impaled it several times into the bottom of the LB. The contact could be heard on the cliff. The boards came ashore and the boyz stood witness. The helmeted idiot was outraged - "this always happens when I surf here". The waves called back - "listen to the message". On the front page - were we misled into war, or are those not in favor of the war trying to rewrite history? Now that some of the slime is out in the open - people being libbyized, scooterized, roved over - reporters smell blood and politicians feel protected. All of a sudden, there are real questions about going to war - the questions that should have been asked and answered before we went to war. The White Wash Boys are saying - you'all voted for the war and now you are trying to re-write history. Gee - the vote in question occurred while folks were saying "either you're with us (going to war) or against us" - calling dissenters terrorists - like the French. Dropping to new lows like a government move to change the name "French fries" into "freedom fries". The fuckers whipped SPB into a lather, sent them against anyone who didn't see it their way, continued to pour it down the throats of the TVmob via FOX news et al, and badmouthed the rest of the world that came out in protest of the US actions. I remember most of the globe being dead against war. Re-write that. I remember calls to let the weapon inspectors continue their work. I remember Robert Byrd calling on Congress not to let the President have the power to go to war. Spin as they will, the White Wash Boys are on the hook. Check the pics Nora brought back from Italy - in the gallery. These guys are core.  ¶ 8:55 PM 1 comments

 

Is it Winter Yet?

Somehow I lost my way. I've been working too much, tending to soccer boy, and showing up when either the tide's too high, the crowds are too thick, or it's flat. I am past the point of "I got to get wet". To add further pressure, I've listened to the boyz espouse the stoke of surfing the beaches again, only to stare across the bay longingly. Paul caught me on the way to work the other day while he was on his way to A-frames at the beaches. "let's go" - "naw, I got to go to work" What a pitiful exchange on my part. Well, I've been checking it, and watching the buoys. Seems we've had pulses of steep northwest - 310 to 315 at anywhere from 5 to 12 feet with a short period of about 9 to 12 seconds - sounds like winter. The steepness of the swell knocks off a few feet, so by the time it hits the hook, it's been waist to head high. I've heard Moss has been good and the bars are starting to set up. Taking a left turn - In another testimony to intelligent design, I read that a pastor standing in a pool of water was electrocuted when he grabbed a microphone. I'm sorry, but did he pay attention in science class. The theories of electricity are well established, just like those regarding evolution. The lesson - discount science and you may get burned. Just like those in power like us to think - global warming - no evidence, hole in the ozone layer - no evidence of a problem, air pollution - no proof it harms health. Respect nature, learn the nature of things, live in harmony - that's where the spirit is. Spirit is in everything - everything is not the text of the old testament.
"The more powerful and original a mind, the more it will incline towards the religion of solitude." -Aldous Huxley, novelist (1894-1963) Peace.  ¶ 10:25 PM 0 comments