The Gap Gets Wider

It seems the time between blog entries is ever increasing - or so I've been told. Heck - there's been too much surf. Since my last entry, I can remember only one day it dropped to waist high. On that day I took the green plank out, even though there were some waves that were short boardable. Well, after a few cruisers I paddled into a shoulder high wave, set trim, and started gliding down the line. Then I noticed some hapless lad trying to make for the shoulder - his arms were working like wet noodles.
I tried to veer off my line and proceeded to dig a rail - a very long rail. Needless to say, I went down. After the typical low-tide thrashing, I came up to find my green plank ghost-riding toward shore. It didn't seem so bad until the ghost pearled up to his or her jaw and buried the nose of the plank into the reef. Oh well - off to Ralph. A word on Ralph. He is New Beginnings Glassing and Repair - the best in town. He has glassed my new boards and receives a constant stream of my polyester and epoxy boards for repair. He gets the work done quick with the highest quality. Right. In fact, it wasn't long after fixing the azul fish post-Nicky that I clipped the back end of a LB piloted by another rope-armed faceless imp. I was flyyyying off the top, this guy barely gets himself over the crest, bam*** - one quad fin missing in action and two boxes roughed up. Off to Ralph. The azul fish is becoming a ding magnet. Or, is it me? I've been getting great waves at 49 Steps almost every day - it has been non-stop. That's why I've been lagging. Saturday was off shore and clean, head high, and semi-massed. Super Bowl Sunday dropped in size and was not as clean, but the masses were enforce. I thought Monday might be slow - but no. The morning started of very clean and a little overhead. By noon, macking 12 wave sets were pouring in. Very clean and well spaced, breaking on the 20-foot contour - closeouts across the point. The in-betweeners were great, but the sets cleared almost everyone. I watched some epic rides at 38th. Through the day the swell kept building - about 10 feet from 295 at 20 seconds. Tuesday the size stayed (15 feet at 17 seconds) but the direction switched to 310. The surf became manageable at the Point, and the crew were down on it. Today, the surf continued to pump. Over the last few days I've been lucky to score some great waves at the Steps, Third Bowl/Sharks, and down toward Privates. Tonight, I still hear the waves pounding - tomorrow. I spent some time listening to Alberto "No Nads" Gonzales wordsmith for the Executive. My gosh - How many ways can one interpret the word no. I thought my sons were ingenious. A-nad was incredible - as in "not credible". All I can say is fuck it - I heard him say the law was a tool - one of many available to the Executive. It's like there's a choice as to using one tool or another. Do I do 50 or 80 MPH? Do I pay my taxes or pass? Do I get a warrant or just wing-it? In the end, most of the "friends of the Executive" just fell over themselves lavishing praise on A-nad for protecting us. A virtual bone-smoking fest with A-nad at the receiving end. Please. There's no stopping them - So, surf with your friends, enjoy life, and let the beltway keep smoking.  ¶ 12:24 AM