5.19.2006
Picture of God
Since Mother's Day, and with the exception of Monday, the south swell has kept the Eastside in surf. My gosh, have I had fun. Swell size has ranged between 2 and 3.6 feet, the swell direction has ranged between 180 and 200, and the period has averaged 14 seconds. It must really be raging in the southern hemisphere. It's been a great start to the south season. I've had most of my fun at Tiburones, but stops at Second Bowl have been sick. All the boyz have been scoring. I heard one of the less traveled learned an important lesson at the bottom of the Steps. What I wonder is how it took him so long to be educated. I'm sure he see things differently now. Of course this run of south swell hasn't been without incident. The "I see your ass to often" list (ass list or A-list) includes many notables, but as long as there's another set, it can wait. I've sounded off regarding the 50-rule, but it seems some of the near-60s riding their planks are stiff in the neck, hard of hearing, and have bad eye sight. There's a few of you on the A-list, but I don't mind - yet. Yes, I've done my share of showing my ass to others, but at least I'm not sporting a G-string anymore. A friend showed me a picture of God. The folks that gave it to him were serious, and I respect that. It got me thinking about other pictures of God I've seen. In fact, they're all around if you take the time to look. Moms with their children, my wife, the clouds this evening, surf sessions, the shattering noise and force of a top to bottom grind as you paddle out, flowers, beautiful women, good times, bad times, people talking out against the war, injustice, and poverty, that passage in your book that left you thinking. I'm sure these are all pictures of God - the list goes on. That guy giving you the "I'm burning you no matter what you say" look - maybe not. Yin and Yang baby. Paul - did you weed today? I missed you out in the lineup. Dane's got a new old car thanks to his brother - there's a picture. Butterscotch? Penguin's got a new board in the rafter - red is lead, blue is true. Apparently Arlen gave up on trying to protect us from ourselves. The public doesn't mind being spied on. The poles say so, and Arlan's constituents did not support his effort to reinstate the constitution and end the slide toward executive dictatorship. The media and general public did not foam at the mouth - spy on us - it's ok - we trust you. We are turning into a nation of beltway bobbleheads. Stay independent - live on the edge - tear down the wall, no frontiers, no borders, Surf
We cannot defend freedom abroad by deserting it at home. -Edward R. Murrow, journalist (1908-1965)