6.13.2006
Easy
I am easing into summer, catching some fun days at the Steps and Tiburones. Days have been split between SB windows and LB glides. Swell has been mostly from the steep south, but there were a couple of northwest ground/wind swell days. It seems the cycle of weekend south swells is again the norm. With the great weather and south showing on Saturday last, I resorted to the LB glide at Terry's Bowl in order to stay grooved. It was packed at the Bowl - I wanted to SB, but the fun factor balanced with the mass factor steered me to the LB. Even though I was fixing on the SB session, I had a great time. Ralph and his wife were out scoring Terry's with me and it made it a fun time. I even got to try a Morey Swizzle - wild. Sunday, I couldn't stand it and charged with the SB in the late afternoon. Always fun. During the week, it was glide with some intermittent SB sessions. The Flytrap has been great, along with the rest of the crew, in making Gio's beach summer memorable. Thanks guys. This Saturday, a couple of the boyz caught me groveling on the SB at the Steps - Penguin made sure I knew he was watching - Hey, what can I say? - I love to surf. It's those days when I'm groveling in knee high wind-blown surf that reminds me of being a grom. It didn't matter too much how the surf was. Fact was, you were being pushed along by an ocean wave, the wind was clean, saltwater, sand, sun, scarfing wildly, and an afterglow before passing out. It's still the same. The beltway bobbleheads continue to spew, and this line from the bobblehead with the biggest wobble was typical. On the subject of immigrants, W commented, "..they must learn the values and history of America". Of course many in our USA walk to their own beat and know nothing of history, but that said, let's look deeper. What are "American Values"? Are these the values exemplified by the current government? Mislead, lie, steal, civilian killing or "wrong place and wrong time", revenge, land grab, war, preemptive war, fear, spying, constitutional ignorance and manipulation, corporate dominance over mankind and nature, bad religion, bigotry, homophobia, with me or against me, poor getting poorer, dumb getting dumber, control, spin, money, more money. The list is long, but most folks I know are simple with love in their hearts - a universal value. I'm not sure about American Values - but I know what my parents taught me; the same thing I teach my children, and the same thing that folks in most parts of the world believe in - regardless of religion. I'm sure most immigrants have impeccable values. American History? You can't believe everything you read or hear - especially with American History - or myth in many cases. For those entering the country - pass the test. Then, start learning - that's what is great about USA. If you work at it, you can learn something close to the truth, and fill in the blanks on you own. No blanks regarding the picture - KB sent it in from a friend in eastern OZ. I'm thinking about a surf caste system - here are the stratified levels of society: international pros, pros, standouts, the boyz, the crew, the masses, kooks, idiots, and - lest we forget - maggots. Where do you fall? Anybody heard anything about caveporn.com yet? I need a fix - where are those pics? Oh yea - did you hear the Congress is thinking of raising the minimum wage? they haven't done so for a decade - but they aren't thinking of raising their wages - they did raise their wages for the 7th time in the last decade.
There is a crack in everything. That's how the light gets in. Leonard Cohen, musician (1934- )