So Far, So Good

OK - I'm lagging, but for good reason. The summer surf has been relatively good, so far. I have managed to surf waist to head high waves on consecutive days - consecutive weeks. Sharks, Second Bowl - even - gasp - Second Peak. Surf sessions have included all the accoutrements - surf schools, kooks, butt jacking, wave jacking, and just plain jacking. Pros, standouts, the crew, the boyz, the masses, the idiots - the maggots. I'm pretty sure we all had fun. Swell size has ranged between 1.5 and 4 feet from 180 to 200 with a period of about 14 seconds. The southern hemisphere has been on fire. Check the RipCurl "somewhere in Mexico" contest clips - unfucking real. The last four evenings have provided fun surf at Tiburones and the Steps, and its been great to see the crew out after work and getting the real payoff. KB stayed with me and raced in the Jay Memorial Paddle. I guess he had fun, but I think the surf sessions we had provided more stoke. DYSM was challenged by the rotation, but I think some meditation and a helping of Hot Dog soothed his hype. Sometimes we take ourselves too seriously, but our bros usually know how to reset the balance. Thanks. Rant: What can I say. The hurricane is all around us - too much. I'm just frustrated with what's going on with my contribution - the money I throw into the pot. What about you? Would you pay for half of this shit if you had a say? Drug war - in Afghanistan? War on Terror - terror is a method - not a country, not a people. Immigration or nuclear weapons? Corporate tax breaks and incentives - what is our return? Without the tonic of surf, family, and friends, frustration would turn black. Watched a doc on Tibet and was saddened that land grab continues to ruin those closest to the earth and culture of their land. There was, and is, a great awareness and sensitivity to the plight of Jews - virtually nothing on the eradication of Tibetians, their culture, religion, and land. Right now. I do not believe history teaches. We cherry-pick what works for us, continue to be self-interested, self-engaged, and let myths fill in the cracks. I'd like to see my tax dollars work at home - not for contractors and corporations that are self-interested and self-engaged, but for humanity - people. Same with dollars spent around the world - replace drug eradication with education. Butter - not guns. Pic: more SciFi surf from the island continent.

The difference between false memories and true ones is the same as for jewels: it is always the false ones that look the most real, the most brilliant. -Salvador Dali, painter (1904-1989)  ¶ 11:37 PM