Train Keeps on Comin'

The surf has been non-stop - freight cars, passenger cars, lumber cars, cement cars - they just keep coming. Much of it has been head-high and over-head. Just in the last few days the surf has dropped to between waist and shoulder-high. Of course, that's just because the steep 310 swell direction doesn't hit the Steps as well as the Point. For the most part, the swell direction has been between 290 and 300. Throughout the last two weeks I've had some great waves. I rode the Progression thruster and green quad - the azul fish has been dry-docked since my collision with Nicky. Saw Collin out on his fish on Friday evening at Sharks - the waves with shape were few, but I saw him grab a few and I ended my Second Bowl session there with a good last ride. I also saw Terry making his way down to Terry's Bowl. Thanks to Shannon for keeping the LBs clear on the smaller days when all would be lost if the LBs gathered in mass. Have you guys seen the new goofy-footer at second bowl. Sebastian's been surfing the Steps for a few months and is ripping it - I swear I saw him just about upside down while slashing the lip - no-cord and made it look easy. Up there with Peter - and same great vibe. It's top100 when kids like that show up. The Mayors new board was showcased one morning - another beauty. Watch out this summer for a green plank gliding in front while you charge down the line - it's ok, it's just the Mayor. News: recently the largest prime number to date was discovered - (2^30,402,457)-1, insane! Back to spying on you and me - remember carnivor? Still out there with no leash. According to some poll, 65% of the public think esurv is ok - even while breaking the law. SPB. All I have to say is - wait until it happens to you. What about Congressional oversight of the matter? The fearless leader says, "as long as it doesn't help the enemy." It seems to me that the "eneme" would like nothing better than the degradation of our constitution - the breakdown of our government. According to W, the eneme attacked us because "they hate our freedoms." Yet, by domestic spying while ignoring the rule of law, W restricts our freedoms, ignores our constitution, and works to degrade our system of government. Whom is terrorizing whom? As Gore recently noted in a pretty heavy speech, the Bill of Rights were incorporated at a time when our country was at war for its life. Is the current war of choice - the war on terrorism, so much more critical that our rights under the constitution should be compromised? What disrespect for all those who have given so much so those rights are protected. A king can stand people fighting but he can't last long if people start thinking. -Will Rogers, humorist (1879-1935)  ¶ 7:31 PM 0 comments

 
Since I last wrote, the ocean has been turning inside out. Day after day of swell head high and bigger. Some weather in between, but some satisfying surf. Today, it went away - except for the masses. Over the push, I surfed the Hook, Sharks, and In Between. Got some good waves, but the best shape held at the Hook. On Saturday evening, 59 Steps was on fire and the pros were ripping it - cameras on the beach. Of course,I ended up watching after surfing Sharks and points east. Well, 2005 is behind us. It was fun - a slow summer, no fall, and some early winter power. Surf schools were put on notice, the Mayor deepened his tan, Lance kept us well fed at the Rock, extreme Bocce ball at low tide, I conceived the azul fish first, penguin got angry, Terry's bowl was his, Graphic Mike was on my trail, Rick got stitches, Novak kept the boyz in line, Shannon policed the Steps, every contest at the Hook had a swell, week ends only, cars stolen from the lot and looted, a nation in fear of varying degrees of color, hit me with your surfin' stick, hit me, soccer tournaments, surfing with the boyz, long days and short days, swimming, Rocky's Torture Chamber, no foam, no war, NO CONTEST. Politics - the dark underside is being revealed, but what will become of it. Years ago this happened to Tricky Dick - Mr. Mitchell, a cabinet member, was part of the scheme, but - the court said Mitchell was protected from suit because when he authorized the wiretap he did not realize his actions violated the Fourth Amendment. Yes, that's right. Part of the executive branch of government and he did not know. I was under the impression, in fact, I've been told many times, ignorance of the law is no excuse. But I see, it really depends on who you are, your position, and whom you know. At times, it seems to be the court of injustice. So, it will be no wonder when the fallout from K street and domestic spying without warrants goes nowhere. Response - for all those untraveled, Indicators is a name bestowed on many points at sea that indicate conditions, some of which you can surf. The pictures posted in the gallery are from the Indicators at the top of Palos Verdes Cove during the week-before Christmas swell. As you can see, north swell of any size holds with great lefts. The silhouette above was taken inside the civic during the Nine Inch Nails show - the first live show with gio - it was our highlight of 2005. Happy New Year - let's all get good surf, have fun, and keep it fun.  ¶ 8:46 PM 1 comments