Picture of God

Since Mother's Day, and with the exception of Monday, the south swell has kept the Eastside in surf. My gosh, have I had fun. Swell size has ranged between 2 and 3.6 feet, the swell direction has ranged between 180 and 200, and the period has averaged 14 seconds. It must really be raging in the southern hemisphere. It's been a great start to the south season. I've had most of my fun at Tiburones, but stops at Second Bowl have been sick. All the boyz have been scoring. I heard one of the less traveled learned an important lesson at the bottom of the Steps. What I wonder is how it took him so long to be educated. I'm sure he see things differently now. Of course this run of south swell hasn't been without incident. The "I see your ass to often" list (ass list or A-list) includes many notables, but as long as there's another set, it can wait. I've sounded off regarding the 50-rule, but it seems some of the near-60s riding their planks are stiff in the neck, hard of hearing, and have bad eye sight. There's a few of you on the A-list, but I don't mind - yet. Yes, I've done my share of showing my ass to others, but at least I'm not sporting a G-string anymore. A friend showed me a picture of God. The folks that gave it to him were serious, and I respect that. It got me thinking about other pictures of God I've seen. In fact, they're all around if you take the time to look. Moms with their children, my wife, the clouds this evening, surf sessions, the shattering noise and force of a top to bottom grind as you paddle out, flowers, beautiful women, good times, bad times, people talking out against the war, injustice, and poverty, that passage in your book that left you thinking. I'm sure these are all pictures of God - the list goes on. That guy giving you the "I'm burning you no matter what you say" look - maybe not. Yin and Yang baby. Paul - did you weed today? I missed you out in the lineup. Dane's got a new old car thanks to his brother - there's a picture. Butterscotch? Penguin's got a new board in the rafter - red is lead, blue is true. Apparently Arlen gave up on trying to protect us from ourselves. The public doesn't mind being spied on. The poles say so, and Arlan's constituents did not support his effort to reinstate the constitution and end the slide toward executive dictatorship. The media and general public did not foam at the mouth - spy on us - it's ok - we trust you. We are turning into a nation of beltway bobbleheads. Stay independent - live on the edge - tear down the wall, no frontiers, no borders, Surf

We cannot defend freedom abroad by deserting it at home. -Edward R. Murrow, journalist (1908-1965)  ¶ 10:57 PM 0 comments

 

Saturated South

We went from the winter lull, past the spring wind swells, and had the first significant south of the season over the weekend. Got Tiburones Friday, Saturday, and Sunday chest-high to over-head with great conditions. Saturday was real fun with a mid-morning to afternoon session followed by a great evening session. Surfed until dark. The buoys showed the swell maxing at 3.8 feet from 190 at 17 seconds. Wrapped the swell up on Monday at Second Bowl with some fun left-overs. Had to thrash Paul throughout the swell because he was supposed to be at work pulling weeds. I really feel sorry for his poor, hard working, wife. What a woman. I see her pulling the weeds - but where is Paul? Loafing at the beach. The Butterscotch was fouled while hanging on the racks - no water in sight. Embarrassed that it was damaged outside of the wave arena, its' depressed owner went to the best smythe in town. Repaired, the crewsader was back in action during the south. Check your racks! Hey - did you see the bloated sea lion carcass floating out in the kelp beds during the swell? Well, I went gliding this afternoon on the LB and saw the bloated form moving toward the beach in the cove. When it hits the beach and explodes - wow! It got me thinking. That bloated carcass is just like the Bush administration and the step-in-line congress. Continuing to contrive - continuing to bloat. But at some point, the high tide is going to hurl it on the beach and its going to explode. And just like the bloated carcass in Sharks Cove, its going to let out a stench when it blows. All the stink the White Wash has been accumulating will blow. It will smell for months. I can almost smell it now.

When the power of love overcomes the love of power the world will know peace. -Jimi Hendrix, musician, singer, and songwriter (1942-1970)  ¶ 11:40 PM 3 comments

 

No Surf - but Music

At the address below, hear Neil Young's new music focused on the war. It's great music, and means something now. Also, although Repubs are pretty low on my list right now - check out Arlen Spector (R-Pennsylvania). Google his trip with respect to NSA spying and executive branch over reach. He's pissed off at Congress for doing nothing regarding the NSA scene and he's pissed at us for not lathering more about being spied on. This man talks Constitution - but is diplomatic. Please get lathered - just like it was a surf school pissing on us or that idiot saying sorry. Neil is going off - check it out. Meanwhile, a small south is running, but is currently overrun by a steep north swell from 310. If the north weakens and the south holds, there may be some small peelers. Later

http://www.hyfntrak.com/neilyoung2/AFF23130/  ¶ 10:26 PM 0 comments