Autumn Equinox

Summer is folding into fall and after a few sketchy souths, the first good northwest hit Wednesday. Sure, the souths are satisfying as the waves at Tiburones walls into the cove, but the northwest at La Bol Segunda is another wave, with its' own luster. More open walls, fast sections, and sometimes a makable barrel. I had a fun time on Wednesday, and tasted all La Bol had to offer. I kept it short, and when I got out, I was entertained by a real time surf video staring Noe and some of the other rippers. Flytrap and I saw some insane surfing. The following day the swell had dropped, but it was fun. Today, it seemed the swell was bigger and still from the northwest - steep. By the afternoon, a close wind swell had joined the ground swell to produce doubleup slop. I surfed anyway, got a few, and bailed. I heard El Nino conditions are forming in the Pacific, so maybe we will have some good surf - but be ready for a lot of rain. Rick just got back from El Salvador and from the look of some pictures he left - he scored. I included one of the pics above, and, as time allows, will post an album. Must be nice. Couple things have caught my eye as I've wandered the beltway. In Alaska, the bears and wolves have been living too well. In feeding themselves, they haven't thought to share with hunters who come to the state to spend money and land that trophy moose or caribou. So, the state decided to promote killing wolves and black bears to cut the number of predators and make trophy hunting easier. Capitalism at work. As if you needed help with this one, a scientist analyzed the statistics surrounding suicide terrorism and found that it's not really about religion or hating our freedoms. His primary finding: suicide terrorism is more about foreign occupation than Islamic fundamentalism (author - Robert Pape). Yes, this means the more we occupy, and the more we help others to occupy (Palestine), the more pissed off the folks whose land is occupied get - makes sense. QED: it follows that our war on terror is making us less safe. Finally, our Congress continues to stroke the Stupident. They debate levels of torture, its definition, and its legal standing. Not much said about the fact that information obtained using torture is just about useless. They want to use such obtained information as evidence against the tortured. And the Stupident will be left to define what torture is by having the power to interpret the Convention. They've got to be sniffing glue. Single debate point. Do you want some despot interpreting the Convention when it comes to US soldiers? - your son? Of course, none of the elite that are making this war happen and profiting from it have children in harms way, but what about the normal distribution? The US, and our reputation, continues to reach new lows. Every time I think we've reached the bottom of the barrel, the CORPGOV bails out some more sludge and reaches a deeper level of slime. Don't wait for help from the Dumbocrats, they're not putting up too much of a fight. SPB wake up, they're giving you nothing but shit.

The dissenter is every human being at those moments of his life when he resigns momentarily from the herd and thinks for himself. Archibald MacLeish, poet and librarian (1892-1982)  ¶ 7:28 PM 0 comments

 

Pay the Price

It seems we continue to pay the price for the great July swells - I just want to know how much. I've tried to surf a few times, but it's been pitiful. Today I thought I could get some insiders between First and Second Peak. Took off on a couple that tabled out and got one that offered a few turns. At that point the LB crew started to take their unfair share, so I paddled down to the Steps. It was even worse - kelpy, no shape, and just plain frustrating. Is it time for a sacrifice to the gods? Well - it's clear - not much to report about in terms of surf. I saw a first run of the "Last Board" movie-short and it was pretty good. Qtip did a great job of putting together 4 hours of film into 20 minutes of board building that does not put you to sleep. Still unfinished, but coming along well. The lather spewing from the beltway boyz is putrid these days - a run up to 9/11 and the elections. It seems hopeless. I am ashamed of our country's leadership. Secret prisons off shore. Legal? Where? Safe Torture? Does that sound right? Won't give the bad boyz any motivation to get secret themselves. It's like what happened to Chuck in the "Missing in Action" series. He's in secret prisons in Nam. Gets out, goes back and gets his buddies out of the secret prisons; the suits and ties forget about him. Expendable. GDUB saw it and liked it. Tuff guys. Electro-shock. Hey VEEP, that's what we should do. Just like those crazy Viet Cong in the movie. So - Boycott 9/11 - no media hype - surf, hike, work, play music, sex, read something unreal, just don't allow yourself to be basted by the FEDCorp. See no evil, Hear no evil, Speak no evil.

Whenever morality is based on theology, whenever right is made dependent on divine authority, the most immoral, unjust, infamous things can be justified and established. -Ludwig Feuerbach, philosopher (1804-1872)  ¶ 10:51 PM 1 comments