Spirits

Some places have spirits. The Islands are one of those places- or so it is said. The sky, the water, the earth, the creatures. At the Luau, you party with your friends, family, the community - the spirits. It was a beautiful plate of shrimp, fresh from the ocean. The evening sun set was on and I was hungry - ready to party with the spirits - consume the spirit of the ocean - the beautiful shrimp. I ate one, two, a dozen went down. But, so many more. In respect, I consumed. I went to bed with the spirits. Later that night, the spirit began to move within me, and I felt it settle in my foot. I heard it as a whisper to begin with - "getout, getout". It sounded like "get out". Then, I felt the spirit pinch me, pinch and not stop. Again, "getout, getout, getout". Finally, it got louder and I understood - GOUT. Terry, you know what I mean. My big toe was killin' me and all I could think about were those shimp and how they transferred the spirit of the Islands to my foot - bad spirit - "get out". Surfed with my bad foot the next day and had fun, ate some food, and thought "maybe tomorrow the spirit will leave me". Later that night my foot was throbbing. Today, it looks like the swell picked up, but I'm hobbling. Hope the crew is scoring some surf - something to even it out. Earthquakes, torrential rains, Gout. See ya.  ¶ 2:02 PM 3 comments

 

Rock and Lull

Great surf for a week and half was finished with an exclamation point south swell; 4 feet, 17 seconds from 195. Now, some kind of fall lull has ensued. Time to heal from the summer surf and prepare for the northwest. Ralph et. al. are in Mex riding the Wall - hope they score. Drama at the Hook - I won't go into the details, but I thought it was amusing that a Westside patriot was in the lot extolling the virtues of his bro Richard and his surf school, when most of the lots' occupants are ex-students. Nice shot man. All I can say is it was a matter of time - and youth. Hey Rick - how about Thursday at high tide when the south was macking at Tiburones? Oh my gosh. Back to surf schools - tax the church! The highest taxes for use of those areas that are most used by the community. Let the money pressure the decisions of surf school owners. Latest news: the Beltway hardliners are moralists who are protecting the family while praying on its members - economically and physically. They don't act like they vote - hey? And now- no chance to go to the courts to argue a mistake was made in being marked as a terrorist - and guess what, you may be fighting for your country, your life, but if it's against the USA - you are a terrorist - per GeeDub and the layover congress. It's been shown plenty of mistakes have been, and are being made, but one must forget about those small errors when one is protecting a self-bloated country of SPB minions. It's always a new low - and I'm afraid with the impending election, Death Valley is high in comparison to what's being cooked up. I'll be reporting from the field next time - Aloha

Turn on, Tune in, Drop out.  ¶ 11:51 PM 0 comments