Rushed

Seems I get so rushed starting with Thanksgiving week. Usually I stick around town, hang with the folks, and grab some surf, but this year it was a trip to CaliSur for a football (soccer) tournament. Of course, I brought a board. Surfed Carlsbad, Cardiff, and Del Mar. Swell was good and got surf chest-high to overhead. A particular reef I surfed in Cardiff humbled me most of the day. Even though I saw guys getting pitched before I ventured out, I figured I could hold my own. Nope. Sure, I got some good ones, but I also got hammered. This place heaved on a boil, charged down the line a short distance, and typically ended up folding into an oncoming left. More than once I found myself on top of the boil without being able to drop in or pull out. I became one with the lip. Over the falls, reef bounce, and up for air - looking good. Later in the day I got some instruction from some savvy locals - be choosy. It helped a little, but I still realized I needed a few more sessions to get the place wired. Oh well, not enough time. I got back home - my leg was hurting, my shoulder was killing me, and I got a cold. So, I've been out of the water. Apparently, I have not missed much, but the predictors are showing swell starting tomorrow. I had fun during the week at low tide looking for fins and boning. Holy cow, does Roy have a set of eyes. He found two nice fins in as many days. I came up with some bone scraps - but the days were gorgeous. Well, with the swell predicted, the hoi polloi will be on it, but I'm sure the vespiary of local rippers will be directing the traffic. To the beltway - We have a change in power; R is out and D is in. As far as I can tell, no real difference. Maybe on the environment, but in reality, no one wants to move things to far from the current norm. Yellow Cheese, SBP, GovCorp, and money provide a strong current - the mainstream. It's as hard to bust out of as it is for me to bust air. The pic is for you dreamers getting ready to travel - following in the footsteps.  ¶ 9:10 PM 4 comments