April

Sorry for the delay, but I've been surfing. We've had three good south swells early this year and I have tried to fill my cup. With loads of sand in at the Steps and Tiburones, the south swell waves have been fast, with hammering closeouts a'plenty. Intermixed with the south swells were northwest swells, which provided some wave face to contrast the south speed runs. Waves varied from shoulder-high to overhead and Easter break provided the masses extra surf time. It was crowded. Several of the crew took a leave of absence, formed El Grupo de El Salvador (Hot Dog, Billy, Mikey, Haut, Rick, et. al.), and went tripping. They missed some south gems at home, but according to Hot Dog, the trip was famous. Besides warm water, there were great waves, good food, and, most of all, good people. To get an idea, check the El Salvador pics posted in the gallery from when Rick went. Apparently Hot Dog has some pics posted on MySpace - check him out. Up to and during the week the boyz were gone, I took a short surf trip to the Ranch, 38th went off, and the Fox Racing?/Surf team destroyed the Hook. I got lucky and surfed the Ranch for three days with waves running from shoulder-high to double-overhead plus. The weather was great, there were no crowds, and the view was all time. I got to drive in on the beach and check Razor Blades, Drakes, Little Drakes, Rights and Lefts, San Augustine, Bulito Point, and all the reefs and beach breaks in between. It was a dream. The barrel at Little Drakes was like perfect Stockton, with four guys out. Then the swell macked and some spots were just over matched. I loaded some pics in the gallery. When I got home I went to the Hook to check the swell. It was overcast with offshores and the swell was great. I watched overhead gems at Tiburones, Steps, and 38th - all going off, and the crowd was small. I talked Rachel into going out, but I couldn't go. I was supposed to be home from my surf trip and was on a shortened leash. The next day the crowd factor went off the scale. Driving down 38th was like driving down pro central - everyone suiting up was sponsored. Then I saw why - offshore 38th sand-spitting barrels. I watched for a while and saw some outrageous rides - unf..ckinbelievable. Surfline has some video of the 38th barrelfest. Not to be outdone, the Fox Racing/Surf team (Kalani Rob et.al.) showed up with 4 video guys, ten photogs, and commenced the annihilation of the Hook. They parked in my favorite spot, but didn't get a ticket from my favorite patrolman. How's that? The south swell faded, but a northwest filled in and surf continued through the weekend. All good things come to an end - and so it was with the surf. Surfed a couple times during the week - I mean weak wind swell. Tonight I capped it with pitiful Steps - but Hot Dog told me to go out (in my mind). We've all heard Penguin threaten to leave the Point, but this time the evidence is clear - he's gone south. This girl did what others could not. Good Luck. We lost part of the police force - what has the Mayor got planned? I will try to be more diligent so that Penguin doesn't feel so far away. News from the beltway - Gone-zales - enough said.

There is wisdom in turning as often as possible from the familiar to the unfamiliar: it keeps the mind nimble, it kills prejudice, and it fosters humor. -George Santayana, philosopher  ¶ 7:15 PM