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east side blog
5.08.2007
 

Stop Crying, You Haven't Missed a Thing


The last week of April showed with some fun waves, but is seems Penguin took the waves when he left. Hence the title. For me, the week following Penguin's migration started with a back strain caused by splitting wood to stash for winter - sure. In fact, I was bending over picking up debris and packing it in the green bin when suddenly I felt like 80. Before the back mishap, I was getting some fun waves at Tiburones and the Steps. Waves were anywhere from waist to overhead, and the sand and wave direction made for great shape. One early afternoon, I had a great session at Privates before I was chased out by the LB crew. The follow-up at Tiburones was an epic cap to the day. Unfortunately, I missed Penguin at Tiburones. Of course, there was no way I was going to convince him to surf Privates with me - as he will testify. I waylaid him once before with a trip down the point, and he left disgusted. He promised he would never again listen to my advice regarding Privates. On that fine day during the last week of April - his loss. I'm sure while we have endured some small days, Penguin has been scoring - but Swamiis? You're in goofy foot paradise - use it before you loose it - use it, don't abuse it - when in Rome do as the Romans - Table Top, Carlsbad, Cardiff, Stone Steps, Churches, the goofy foot temple - Blacks - go left mi hijo.

There were waves over the Cinco de Mayo weekend, and the crowds were small in the afternoon. Moderate off-shore winds and a yearning for drinking provided an opportunity for some fun waves with only a few bros. Hangovers kept the crowds low the following afternoon, but the swell wained. In any case, the days were glorious with blue sky and sun - if you could stop sneezing and clear your watering eyes long enough to get a glimpse. Over the last few days the swell has been small to ND. Went on the glide this afternoon, and the biggest waves I saw were caused by Hot Dog hopping his SB. It was sick. By the way, I saw DYSM get a great barrel on Cino de Mayo. The wind held the lip, the curtain was thick, and DYSM was well placed. On the beach, I let him know I was stoked and he flipped. "I thought no one would see me". Can you imagine? that's never stopped him before - DYSM?

The presidential election propaganda has started earlier than ever this year - seems most people can't wait to get rid of the latest installment. No matter what, I still believe they are all the same thing - like yin and yang, but all bad. That said, I'm still slack-jawed at the idea that some of those eager to run our great nation don't consider evolution to be a valid theory that has been scientifically established. So far this is the only distinguishing feature I can discern between the Repugs and Demons. It was three Repugs that denied the science. Yet, one of these guys wants the ability to hold the Nuclear hand. Nuclear science is used to date artifacts, geology, and fossils, and provide multiple lines of evidence establishing evolution. But these guys don't agree. Well, SPB elected Bush - they can surely elect an idiot who flies with the grace of science, but has no wings.

The pic I included at the top shows our newest ambassador to Iraq. Apparently, as the picture shows, he was either very surprised or just had a stick poked up his ass. Where does the Admonistration find these guys?

Rasta......I decided to construct that mental quiver in my brain where I’ve got the diversity in my brain to say, “So what if it’s not six-foot and perfect, I can just go down and have a swim and I’m still gonna be a happy human. I’m still gonna be peaceful and treat people with an open heart and try to be as respectful and happy and feel the fun and joy as I would be if the surf was six-foot and perfect.” 
Comments:
Don't you love it when dane aka DYSM says for you to go on a incoming wave,unbeknowest to you , that he knows there's a bigger better set wave right behind the miserable meager pinner of a wave he just told you to go for.

or when he see's a wave out the back and calls it > oh i'm soo gonna go right on this.

A new word dane needs to learn:brotation
hahahhahahaha
 
The GUSTAVE contest was okay,but the SHARKS contest next year will be way better.Bring back the paddle contest with beer chugging.No more team style heats with shitty rules(2 wave max HUH)
and go back to black, blue, grey or white shirts. Why Sharks survivor????.

Go back to the roots,right Penguin
 
Simple is best. Lets remember that the whole reason for the "contest" was not to compete, but to have the bowl to ourselves on a day when it typically gets packed. It was about snatching a small measure of brotation on a day where others wished to dominate - compete. It's not about two waves or four waves and judging - it's about surfing a heat with friends. Expresssion session. The beauty of first two is the competition is over quick and the rest is just surfing with bros. Next time, if there is one, let's just surf.
 
Roots is the way to go. When the contest was started it was ment to be a day that the locals took back the beach. So we called it a contest,but it wasn't, made up a tax ID number to get free shit from the shops, and did it on the most busy holiday of the summer. Now for some reason, it is a contest, it isn't held on the day that we started it on, most of the people in it are not locals, and they charge so much and take donations from cats that don't even surf down there that they don't need a tx ID number. Not to take away from what gustav did, I know cause I did it from the start......but the whole thing sucks... go back to the roots, and if you don't when i get back I'll start the real sharks contest all over again....no imitations " Roots " and Trandon...i mean Brandon won't be there.
 
Whatever you guys do,make sure the sharks contest goes on next year.None of this "take a year off" business.What good would that do?Its simple ,next year make it about the locals who are out there everyday and have it be a simple contest (without u know who) in charge.Who cares about sponsers and prizes.We just want to surf and relax.There better be a SHARKS COVE contest 2008.
 
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