Overdue

Yes - I said I would be more conscientious, but I'm inherently lazy. I feel terrible about not keeping the waylaid informed. When I left off last, I wrote about the flat spell we were going through. We usually get waves during the end of May, but this year was looking bleak. The glide can be fun, but there is nothing like racing down the line. To break it up, I took the Falsa out on some knee high days - weak south lines crawling from one hemisphere to the other, barely heaving on the shore, and gasping their last breaths. On one such splendid day, with the glide in full swing and the brotation in effect, a nasty fellow on a 12-foot Soft Top came to claim the day - conquer the weak. This fellow had burned us all with impunity and things finally came to a head. The Mayor spat a few choice words at the impostor, and the next thing I knew, the guy was taking swings at the Mayor (Flytrap) - all while they were gliding along on a shin snapper. On the outside, Mark Whitney was telling me "you got his back!" - What? Let me mention that the impostor was a very large, angry, man. Well, I did my best by jawing at the guy - Penguin, I'm not. No wit, just: "what the fuck is going on? where are you from? we're out here fiddling around and you're getting all agro! - fucking idiot!" That got the guy going, but after his initial onslaught of expletives, he said something I've never heard before - I was dumbfounded - The big angry Soft Top idiot began waggling his finger at us all and exclaimed, "I'm a better longboarder than all of you!" I looked around, and the crew just sat on their boards wide-eyed. What could you say? (We really needed Penguin at this point). We laughed hard the rest of the day - but thinking back - it may have been one of the best maneuvers I've ever witnessed.

As some of the comments from the last post indicate, La Fiesta Tiburones went down with equal measures of stoke and comblitching. The waves were done crawling, and were staggering to the shore, but there was still enough for people to unleash their competitive spirit. Only problem is some forgot the reason behind La Fiesta Tiburones. Originally, the idea was to have a "contest" as a guise to take over our surf spot on a day when the heathens usually converged to destroy our scene. Seems the Fiesta has morphed over the years, and while change is good - sometimes it's not. Ten thousand warriors guard the past, but in this case they got wiped out. I'm sure next year the brain trust will talk long and deep about recent experiences and consider the best mix of past and present.

Thankfully, the swell picked up toward the end of May, and there were some good south pulses. The waits were long, but the brotation was strong. As is typically the case during the summer, south swells tend to arrive on the weekend. So it was with the Memorial Day Weekend. Waves were fun and the crowds were massive. Swell was 2.5 feet from 195 to 200 degrees at about 17 seconds. The Steps was good - Hot Dog, DYSM, Chappy, the Enforcer, other notables, and pros were trashing anything resembling a south wall. The left at Tiburones was also fun with cameo appearances by Hunter, Mark, Charlie, guys you know, and assorted kids. While the crowds were tough, I made it unscathed until Tuesday. All the boyz who thought it was too crowded over the weekend, and waited until Tuesday, were out in force. After eying several wetsuited-asses, I finally lost the battle with my unleashed board. I straightened out and caught a rail in the jaw as I tried to clutch my board in the impact zone. Just a little pain and a depression in my board to remember the experience by. The south swell continued to dole out waves through the week, and with their bellies full, the boyz started to relax. The brotation was back in effect. The trend continued, and the south swell picked up again for another weekend of mayhem. Same as. South swell from 195, 3 feet at 14 seconds. Over the weekend, all the boyz showed. George, Esteban, the Flying Burrito, Ras Mike, Larry "the Brushman" Fuller, Terry, others you know, and many others you don't. Seemed like for the most part I ended up surfing the inside at Tiburones with Kim. The longboard crew set up a wall - a blockade - a flea comb - and what got through we groveled for. I was told the chain of surfboard-covered autos flying over the hill was unbroken. What's notable is I didn't bring any of my boards to Ralph today. It wasn't that I didn't try. Just lucky.

I've noted that our political landscape is covered with weeds. Doublespeak is the language of the day and it's hard to separate government from religion. I think religion kills more people than cancer. What does marriage via religion have to do with civil recognition of a family unit? Evolution is not a belief - it's a theory validated by several lines of evidence that educated people accept and adhere to. Creation is described in Genesis, which is in the Old Testament, which is a manuscript accepted by Jewish, Christian, and Muslim believers. Why is it only the American Christian fringe take the words literally. Lack of an education and basic understanding of metaphors? Organized religion? Why? Recent hearings regarding the Federal Justice Department were revealing. Monica "too good to be true" Goodling broke the law when she considered political and religious affiliation in hiring. Of course her only experience in hiring was while she was student body president at a Christian college founded by Pat Robertson. She hired a couple of people for some low-wage student work. Next thing - she's hiring and firing at the Justice Department. I found out that she was one of 156 students from Pat's Christian college hired by the Bush Abomination - and the school was ranked near the bottom of law schools in the country. Apparently, the Christian focus groups are using the Trojan Horse method to infiltrate and control government. To make us better - to protect us from ourselves - for freedom and the American way (land grab).

I hope you're surfing all those lefts offered by the south swells - I know you've been scoring. Early morning at Moonlight Beach. Now you know - Same as. The pic shows an epic surf spot only a few can reach.

The more powerful and original a mind, the more it will incline towards the religion of solitude. -Aldous Huxley, novelist (1894-1963)  ¶ 9:38 PM