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east side blog
7.05.2007
 

Fireworks


It's late, but the fireworks continue - as does the swell. After two solid weeks of lake-like conditions, a swell started to show on Sunday; just in time for the Fourth of July Holiday. Sunday's waves were small, fifty-fiftys. I belly-boarded as many as I stood up on. By Monday the swell had picked up to the stand up variety. The east wind never materialized, so I surfed in the evening with a few of the boyz. It was a beautiful evening, and in no way foretold the mayhem to come the following day. The swell picked up on Tuesday, the buoys showed 3 feet from 180 at 17 seconds. I surfed Tiburones and saw everybody - everybody. I was allowed to ride some thigh to waist high waves, but the set waves were off limits. Several of the established crew made sure that if I took off on a set wave, the only "face" I would see was that of their neoprened back end. No matter. Today, I could only gaze in wonder as great waves poured in at the Steps and Tiburones while the masses went off. Crowded doesn't quite give the total picture. Ever seen ants froth after their ant hill has been disturbed? I retreated to the house and used my time more productively by working - ahhhhh! I surfed the Fourth in the evening, when I figured the masses would be getting tuned up for an explosive night. The sets were coming in and the crowd was light, but the east wind worked to morph the waves into a "maybe I missed the window" surf session.I got a few. I need a new plan if the east wind is going to be routine.

Well, it comes as no wonder. Money and power, the ultimate weapons, seem to run the show. A well connected friend receives a "get out of jail" card, developers build monstrosities to the dismay of neighbors and the delight of government money grabbers, and surfers are priced out of their life. A friend came back from Mex and told me that a well known Corp PowerSurf paid off a town to close the nearby surf spot so that he and his well-connected friends could dominate like they do everywhere else they go. To bad if you showed up after spending your hard-earned wad only to find you were SOL - Hey man, are you on the invitation list? Who do you know? That started some fireworks.

Word play - As the Demos suggested that the military disengage, reduce numbers, and move to border positions, the Repugs shouted "cut and run" . Now, as the election cycle of 2008 turns, Repugs are suggesting "responsible military disengagement". Sounds to me like "cut and run" dressed up in a fine suit. There's no hypocrisy in our political system.

Final word - Therefore living a life without control, without the action of will, decision, direction, achievement. Is that possible? If it is not possible it is not meditation. Therefore life becomes superficial, meaningless. And to escape from that meaningless life we chase all the gurus, the religious entertainment, circuses, you follow? All the practices of meditation. It has no meaning. 
Comments:
The established crew hunh?? Why don't you stop being a pussy and bang some longboarder heads. The over hyped south of the century again arrived on the fourth of July. Maybe people wouldn't be so surfed starved if they traveled 10 miles north or south. Just get out of your comfort zone. I sure the fuck did and haven't banged heads with anyone since...not that there arn't people to bang heads with.Quit bitchin or move the hell on....the place is called the kook ...I mean the hook for a reason.
 
You're just jealous you don't get to mix it up anymore. Talking about pussy - hit the road with the VW, grow your hair, peace, love, and Bobby Sherman - Fuckin' Hippy!
 
You got it wrong there free ride...I don't have to mix it it up anymore. By not surfing the same spot every day of my pathetic life....Just broaden your horizons by lets say ......a block or two...you would be amazed by how many more options you have. Its kinda nice getting up in the morning and NOT knowing what spot to surf. And as far as your hippy comment, your the one in Santa Cruz dipshit, all your boys are down on Pacific Ave beating their bongos begging for change and rubbing up on their bigfoot looking granola munching women. Just cause I don't have to bang heads dosen't mean I wont if need be, its just nice not having to. In your situation it is plain to see that you do need to rumble a bit and you choose not to, instead you bitch and whine about how this person , or this other person dropped in on you.Who's the pussy?? At least I always stood up for myself......no matter what.
 
Do you eat meat anymore?
 
Blah blah blah ,all I know is that its flat and thats the gayest of all that is gay!!!!!
 
Bang heads? I just hear a whole lot of bark and no bite.
 
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