Stop Crying, You Haven't Missed a Thing

The last week of April showed with some fun waves, but is seems Penguin took the waves when he left. Hence the title. For me, the week following Penguin's migration started with a back strain caused by splitting wood to stash for winter - sure. In fact, I was bending over picking up debris and packing it in the green bin when suddenly I felt like 80. Before the back mishap, I was getting some fun waves at Tiburones and the Steps. Waves were anywhere from waist to overhead, and the sand and wave direction made for great shape. One early afternoon, I had a great session at Privates before I was chased out by the LB crew. The follow-up at Tiburones was an epic cap to the day. Unfortunately, I missed Penguin at Tiburones. Of course, there was no way I was going to convince him to surf Privates with me - as he will testify. I waylaid him once before with a trip down the point, and he left disgusted. He promised he would never again listen to my advice regarding Privates. On that fine day during the last week of April - his loss. I'm sure while we have endured some small days, Penguin has been scoring - but Swamiis? You're in goofy foot paradise - use it before you loose it - use it, don't abuse it - when in Rome do as the Romans - Table Top, Carlsbad, Cardiff, Stone Steps, Churches, the goofy foot temple - Blacks - go left mi hijo.

There were waves over the Cinco de Mayo weekend, and the crowds were small in the afternoon. Moderate off-shore winds and a yearning for drinking provided an opportunity for some fun waves with only a few bros. Hangovers kept the crowds low the following afternoon, but the swell wained. In any case, the days were glorious with blue sky and sun - if you could stop sneezing and clear your watering eyes long enough to get a glimpse. Over the last few days the swell has been small to ND. Went on the glide this afternoon, and the biggest waves I saw were caused by Hot Dog hopping his SB. It was sick. By the way, I saw DYSM get a great barrel on Cino de Mayo. The wind held the lip, the curtain was thick, and DYSM was well placed. On the beach, I let him know I was stoked and he flipped. "I thought no one would see me". Can you imagine? that's never stopped him before - DYSM?

The presidential election propaganda has started earlier than ever this year - seems most people can't wait to get rid of the latest installment. No matter what, I still believe they are all the same thing - like yin and yang, but all bad. That said, I'm still slack-jawed at the idea that some of those eager to run our great nation don't consider evolution to be a valid theory that has been scientifically established. So far this is the only distinguishing feature I can discern between the Repugs and Demons. It was three Repugs that denied the science. Yet, one of these guys wants the ability to hold the Nuclear hand. Nuclear science is used to date artifacts, geology, and fossils, and provide multiple lines of evidence establishing evolution. But these guys don't agree. Well, SPB elected Bush - they can surely elect an idiot who flies with the grace of science, but has no wings.

The pic I included at the top shows our newest ambassador to Iraq. Apparently, as the picture shows, he was either very surprised or just had a stick poked up his ass. Where does the Admonistration find these guys?

Rasta......I decided to construct that mental quiver in my brain where I’ve got the diversity in my brain to say, “So what if it’s not six-foot and perfect, I can just go down and have a swim and I’m still gonna be a happy human. I’m still gonna be peaceful and treat people with an open heart and try to be as respectful and happy and feel the fun and joy as I would be if the surf was six-foot and perfect.”  ¶ 11:53 PM 5 comments