What was, What is

We had a fun south swell over the 4th of July weekfest, but now we're on the downslide. While it seemed the surf was all but gone, I showed up Monday and found some lingering south sets framing the low tide window. Surfed knee to waist high Tiburones with Townsend until the tide pushed in to close the window. Tuesday, the swell was meeker, but still managed enough to allow a few turns on a handful of waist high curbs at La Bol Primera. Today, the fishing looked better. On that note, I have heard stories regarding catches of halibut, sea bass, striped bass, and bat rays. I'm rigged up and ready.

The comments that followed the last post bring up a good point regarding surfing, crowds, and attitude. Some of the narratives posted here may give the reader the idea that I am complaining about my fellow team riders, or surfing in general. I do try to recall the fun, but not to complain. Instead, I try to impart the flavor of the day. Kind of like reporting on a crash during the Tour de France. I'm not impartial; I'm in the race. Let's face it, some days our bros find: the grass is greener; thou shalt not covet....; what's mine is mine and what's yours is mine; the rich get richer; land grab; possession is 9/10-th of the law; I thought you said go, I didn't think you would make it; I only get to surf on the weekends; you get to surf all the time; I thought you were going left; you just caught the last two waves; that guy's a kook, over 50 rule - bottom line - we get greedy and I'm not immune. In my view, you've got to squeeze the fun out and stay positive. We are engaged in one of the greatest cultural activities life offers. Each day I wake with adventure waiting at the end of the street. My gosh, how could I complain. Charlie said it best - "One good bottom turn". Some days, it's easy to get grumpy, but check the view, get a lung full of fresh ocean air, watch a ripper, groove on the wildlife, bottom turn, paddle hard, get pitched, take evasive action, or ride dog style. All this said, I'm still going to provide commentary regarding the mayhem; it's part of the fun - the story.

Another point made in the recent flurry of comments that rings true is the idea of mixing it up by surfing other breaks. I agree. It's often a humbling, exhilarating experience, and definitely adds to one's surfing toolbox. Moreover, stocking the memory banks is key. Thank you commentators.

The Beltway: Romney took questions from about 150 people in West Palm Beach. He said he would like to use the country's leading marketing minds to help sell the idea of American values in the Middle East. How arrogant, what is wrong with the values that have served middle east cultures for thousands of years.

Better yet - The MLS will try to create 'Beckham-mania' in US cities, having already used the promise of tickets to a Beckham visit in every MLS city this year to sell tickets to other matches and help lure sponsorship dollars to every club. How about combining the two marketing efforts - "Beckham Valumania"

About US Leadership: What is it about, say, hard-core sports fans or twenty-something post-sorority girls and pot-bellied frat guys gathering in hordes and drinking so heavily two or three times per week and every single weekend that they can't see straight and fall out of their restaurant chairs and break a tooth on the ceramic tile and throw up in their hair and don't know who they slept with as they fry so many brain cells they finally move to Texas and become president of the United States?

Last Word: Chuck Norris doesn't surf, he walks on water.  ¶ 8:07 PM 2 comments

 

Fireworks

It's late, but the fireworks continue - as does the swell. After two solid weeks of lake-like conditions, a swell started to show on Sunday; just in time for the Fourth of July Holiday. Sunday's waves were small, fifty-fiftys. I belly-boarded as many as I stood up on. By Monday the swell had picked up to the stand up variety. The east wind never materialized, so I surfed in the evening with a few of the boyz. It was a beautiful evening, and in no way foretold the mayhem to come the following day. The swell picked up on Tuesday, the buoys showed 3 feet from 180 at 17 seconds. I surfed Tiburones and saw everybody - everybody. I was allowed to ride some thigh to waist high waves, but the set waves were off limits. Several of the established crew made sure that if I took off on a set wave, the only "face" I would see was that of their neoprened back end. No matter. Today, I could only gaze in wonder as great waves poured in at the Steps and Tiburones while the masses went off. Crowded doesn't quite give the total picture. Ever seen ants froth after their ant hill has been disturbed? I retreated to the house and used my time more productively by working - ahhhhh! I surfed the Fourth in the evening, when I figured the masses would be getting tuned up for an explosive night. The sets were coming in and the crowd was light, but the east wind worked to morph the waves into a "maybe I missed the window" surf session.I got a few. I need a new plan if the east wind is going to be routine.

Well, it comes as no wonder. Money and power, the ultimate weapons, seem to run the show. A well connected friend receives a "get out of jail" card, developers build monstrosities to the dismay of neighbors and the delight of government money grabbers, and surfers are priced out of their life. A friend came back from Mex and told me that a well known Corp PowerSurf paid off a town to close the nearby surf spot so that he and his well-connected friends could dominate like they do everywhere else they go. To bad if you showed up after spending your hard-earned wad only to find you were SOL - Hey man, are you on the invitation list? Who do you know? That started some fireworks.

Word play - As the Demos suggested that the military disengage, reduce numbers, and move to border positions, the Repugs shouted "cut and run" . Now, as the election cycle of 2008 turns, Repugs are suggesting "responsible military disengagement". Sounds to me like "cut and run" dressed up in a fine suit. There's no hypocrisy in our political system.

Final word - Therefore living a life without control, without the action of will, decision, direction, achievement. Is that possible? If it is not possible it is not meditation. Therefore life becomes superficial, meaningless. And to escape from that meaningless life we chase all the gurus, the religious entertainment, circuses, you follow? All the practices of meditation. It has no meaning.  ¶ 12:13 AM 6 comments