Mandolin Wind

The mandolin wind blows in the morning, but by 10:00 the winds hit their normal pattern, and for the most part, there have been plenty of waves since I last checked in. A great west swell showed just today - but that's not it. Surf today was thinking about a beautiful day, fresh air, bottom turns, friends faces, talk story, pack-it-in life. I'm feeling for Paul - aka "Hot Dog" and his loss. His father passed young in years- no warning - a sneaker set. And just minutes after I hear the news, my father calls and tells me about heart trouble, hospital, stints, and everything is fine. Thats why I did more than just surf today. Tomorrow's not a sure thing, but sometimes I forget. Sometimes it's a freight train of news that wakes me from my stupor - hits me hard. I know something about loss, and every time someone I know suffers a loss, I do too. Just a little bit more each time, because I don't think I will ever get over missing those I love, those that have gone before me. I'm sorry Paul.

I don't have much room for anything else - no rant today. Just be thankful, breathe deeply, surf hard, and enjoy it all - everything.

Life consists in what a man is thinking of all day. -Ralph Waldo Emerson, writer and philosopher (1803-1882)  ¶ 10:34 PM