Plek

“A new study published recently in the journal Science suggested that a fishery can be saved by giving those who harvest the sea a guaranteed share of its bounty, rather than having them compete to see who can extract the most the fastest.” Another example that shows free market thinking is not the end-all as envisioned by some economists.

11 November – As evening fills in, so does the swell – 8 feet from 310 at 14 seconds - a little steep for getting around the Point, but sure to generate some refraction.

12 November – Surfed an evening session at the Steps – low-tide-kelp-ridden – fun. Got to say – moonrise on one side and sunset on the other – doesn’t get better than that.

13 November – Surf shrank a bit, and while there was water there were some waves. But, as some of you may have witnessed, my dad was in town. We walked the Point; spoke of times past and times future. The guy’s 80, but doesn’t look much older than 65. Putting myself in his place, I figured I have a future in the LB glide, if I’m so lucky. Back to the surf – the buoys say: 8.3 feet from 285 at 14 seconds mixed with 1.2 feet from 225 at 17 seconds – I just didn’t see it.

The Supreme Court renders a decision on Navy sonar and harm to whales: “We do not discount the importance of plaintiffs’ ecological, scientific, and recreational interests in marine mammals,” Chief Justice John Roberts wrote for the majority. “Those interests, however, are plainly outweighed by the Navy’s need to conduct realistic training exercises to ensure that it is able to neutralize the threat posed by enemy submarines.” What bothers me most – is the clear consideration that the whales are not a relevant life form – whereas human beings are the only relevant life form - truly a Christian tradition. Notice the language – “importance of plaintiffs’ ecological, scientific, and recreational interests in marine mammals” – nothing about the welfare of the affected life forms. Nada. In the balance was the interest of people involved in ecological, scientific, and recreational endeavors weighed against the interest of the Navy (people) to “neutralize the threat posed by enemy submarines (people)”. Nowhere is the idea that beings, no better than ourselves, are in the balance – the whales. Their personal safety, habitat, families, play, food, and procreation - nada.

There is no religion without love, and people may talk as much as they like about their religion, but if it does not teach them to be good and kind to other animals as well as humans, it is all a sham. -Anna Sewell, writer (1820-1878)

Palin said it was the responsibility of Republican governors to ensure that Obama's administration did not exert too much control over the US healthcare system. – Fuckin’ A – let’s keep getting screwed by corporate profits for something that is a constitutional benefit – force corporate pricing for medication, force HSA – more cash for banks at our expense – Corpgov - let’s see how many middle men we can setup to profit from keeping the US public healthy and provide help when folks are ill.

More proof that Corpgov does not live in the sphere of the “free market” - The socialism elite saved once again by Corpgov – massacre and contracts - Blackwater has yet to be charged or hit with any other punitive action over the unprovoked massacre of seventeen Iraqi civilians in Baghdad’s Nissour Square on September 16, 2007. The company has received more than $1.2 billion in government contracts since then.

14 November – Surfed small low tide kelp ridden Second Bowl at sunset. This morning, the lot was full – the Internet swell was in. Being a virtual event – it didn’t necessarily mean there were waves. Given the choice between people and kelp – I went with kelp. At least it’s static, semi soft, and doesn’t talk back. Of course kelp does have attitude. True local. Anyway, got a few. The buoys show 8 feet from 275 at 12 seconds, but on the ground things looked a lot different. More like from 315. I’m not sure, but I think tomorrow holds the promise of more Internet swell.

15 November – Beautiful day – hot n’ glassy – buoys show 6.1 feet from 290 at 14 seconds. The top of the Point looks like it’s getting waves, but just like the economy, the trickle down effect is non-existent. The Steps just weren’t getting it. That didn’t stop the Interlopers from traveling. I turned some soil over in the garden and later this afternoon I’m off to watch the U16 Breakers Academy team play the LA Galaxy U16 team. Beach breaks?

16 and 17 November – Still beautiful – still hot n’ glassy - buoys – nada. Nothing more to be said.

Prolix – tediously wordy - herein?

18 November – It was pitiful, but I had to get a “training” session in at Segundo Bol. I can sum it up as charging a couple of shin-snappers. This epic surf session was followed by a change in the weather – hot to cold off a cliff.

19 November – Flat and cold.

Ali Hamza al-Bahlu - He is accused of three war crimes: Conspiracy, as an alleged member of al Qaeda who ran Osama bin Laden's media operations in Afghanistan and made, among other things, a recruiting film that glorified the suicide bombing of the destroyer USS Cole; Solicitation to Commit Murder of Protected Persons and Providing Material Support for Terrorism. He allegedly also served as a member of bin Laden's security detail. Life in prison.

Salim Hamdan – Saddam’s driver - he was arrested at a road block in Afghanistan in November 2001 with two surface-to-air missiles in his car, and found guilty on the charge of providing support to al-Qaeda. 5 years in prison.

Blackwater and its Employees - According to Iraqi officials, Blackwater guards shot and killed 17 people -- including women and children -- on September 16 at Baghdad's Nusoor Square. Inquiry? Sentence? Nada. $ 92 million Fed contract - United States of Hypocrisy

20 November – Flat – but the beautiful weather returned.

21 November – The Internet made the prediction, and sure enough, day broke with a swell. The buoys show 11.2 feet from 275 at 14 seconds. After an unusual day in a suit and tie, I paddled out at Second Bowl. There was a hearty crowd on it, but I thought I saw a seam on the inside. While ducking the third barrage of white water, I let my board slip from my grip. The board went all the way to the narrow sand beach at the channel between Second Bowl and Third Bowl. Before my first wave I took a significant swim. Luckily, my board washed up on the sand unscathed. This whole affair gave me time to see a few waves break on the western edge of the reef at Tiburones. Having the time to reassess my options, I decided to head over to Tiburones. The seam I thought I saw at Second Bowl appeared very, very narrow. So I pressed on to Tiburones, and I got a couple. In general, Tiburones leaves me wanting when the swell direction is from the northwest; however, I do find some off the reef at the west end of the bowl. After a few waves, I lost my board again after running aground on a kelp bed. My second swim took me all the way into the Cove. After a couple more waves, I decided the sun was at the right elevation for ending the session, and paddled over to inside Second Bowl, between Second Bowl and Third Bowl. I grabbed a decent wave that raced me along toward the left off Tibuornes, and forgetting about my cordless nature, banked off the lip approaching from Tiburones. My fins broke free, I got sideways, and – I was swimming. Next thing I know, my board is heading for the shallow cave next to the main cave at Tiburones. I was swimming hard, while at the same time watching my board inch toward the cave. I was close, but the wave that lifted me toward the cave picked up my board, turned into white water, and disappeared into the cave with my board in tow. I couldn’t see the board, but continued toward the cave to retrieve what was left of it. Just as I reached out, the backwash from the cave surged out and miraculously deposited my board at my fingertips. No scratches on the board, but my fins were tipped with mudstone and it looked as if the tabs on one fin were stressed. I decided it was a good idea to call it a session and let that particular board get a rest.

22, 23 November - I did not see the ocean on Saturday, but I heard the swell had dropped and there was a contest at JTH. Sunday, the swell was definitely gone, and what was left was a mix of the waning ground swell and west-northwest wind swell. It was small double-up contest surf complete with a contest. Tomorrow.

Final Word - Let your capital be simplicity and contentment. -Henry David Thoreau, naturalist and author (1817-1862)  ¶ 12:10 AM 1 comments

 

Kelp Sliding

27 – 31 October, 1 – 3 November – Sketchy surf and good weather before our first good storm came through for Halloween. I surfed a few times, Most notable was on Sunday – the storm surf mellowed and a few lined up between Second Bowl and Sharks. I ventured out an hour post high tide and got some before the pros came out to boost. It didn’t take long for the Second Bowl take off spot to have the kelp mats replaced by pro-mats. Faced with reality, I got one in and watched the proceedings. Today, nada – another storm passing through and storm surf prevailed. Tomorrow – vote. Uncertainty rules with one exception: 1,000 warriors protect the past (corporate status quo).

4 November – Small wind swell at Segundo Bol gave me some late afternoon solace, but eventually the day’s end and kelp mats had their way. What about the bundles of band saw blades that pass as kelp? Did you vote? It will be interesting to see the final tally. Spoke to Larrf – sounds like he’s doing well and was real stoked about a Takyama shaped and glassed redwood that he was orchestrating. He was also considering a glass job to the top of the church van – apparently he’s getting wet.

The headline read: “Rice can trigger severe gut reaction in infants” – At first I had to agree, Rice does trigger a severe gut reaction for me – but why focus on infants? I mean, Condi must make whole populations ill. Then I realized the headline referred to rice – the food staple. My bad.

The suffix, "-ocity" means, "having the quality of." Surfocity, wavocity, groovocity – Next?

5 November – We have a new Prez, but we have disgraced ourselves by showing disregard for a specific group of PEOPLE. On the balance, I am not satisfied. I guess it’s knida’ like the day. Beautiful weather, wind just right – but the surf was flat. On the balance – a beautiful day – why complain. Unfortunately, what a majority of the State’s population said to a small group of citizens was “fuck off”. On the balance, a poor choice. As surfers, we greet every day with the hope of waves – good or otherwise. Esperanza.

6 November – I went out even though it was pinner. Kelp mats not withstanding, I stood on a couple of knee-high slappers at Segundo Bol, felt the cold water and hot sun, and made it through another day. Tomorrow, a new experience waits. I am to show up as a juror at Federal court in San Jose. Two bouts of civic duty in one week – Just as I breath - I am an American.

7 November – Flat. 70F sun on the water flat. No worries. Arsene on football: "Every single team has more experience than we have. I don't believe strength is linked with experience. It is linked with desire, with talent, with intelligence. You can be intelligent at 18 or 20 and be stupid at 30. Every club and every player gives us a different problem and we have to be strong enough to find a solution." Yea. Still looking to the horizon.

8 November – Swell filled in during the evening, and although it was blustery, there was some good surf at The Steps, The buoys showed 12.5 feet from 300 at 12 seconds. It was tough surf, the take-off spot was narrow and guys were strewn all along the wave. I tried outside, but I had the best luck duck-diving sets and getting the in-betweeners. Tried a couple at Tiburones – but the swell direction, size, and tide conspired to make it less than what The Steps was showing. It was Sunday, and plenty of ardent worshipers were on it.

“Detroit and supporters in Congress essentially argue GM, Ford and Chrysler are too big to fail. They employ 250,000 people in the United States and support more than 4 million additional jobs in other areas of the economy.” As the statement indicates, the auto companies cannot be allowed to fail. They can design fuel-guzzling cars in the face of higher demand for oil and fixed supplies, W can provide tax breaks for those willing to buy Hummers and the like, and they don’t have to compete with foreign manufacturers. I see it like this – socialism for those in the upper tier – those who are making bank while the gas-busters are rolling off the sale’s lots. They made plenty of quick cash, dispensed with the long-term planning, and relied on the government response to the idea that jobs will be lost - “..they employ 250,000 people in the United States and support more than 4 million additional jobs in other areas of the economy”. For the legions of daily workers – it’s free-market economics – the pawns of the corporate socialists. It is the average folks and small businesses that are exposed to the free market, supply and demand, and painful market adjustments. Not the corporate infrastructure. They are too big to fail. Plus - they all got parachutes.

9 – 11 November – Surfed Sunday and Monday as the swell metered down. I kept to the low-tide kelp-ridden hours of the session, but scored a few. Also did a lot of swimming/pulling through the kelp-infested water to retrieve my board. I’ve been surfing cordless, and was ejected from the board several times as I ran aground on island mats of kelp. Have I used the word “kelp” enough? Tonight, the moon rising and the sun setting, I caught a few at Segundo Bol before night overtook day. It was fun and a bit of a challenge staying out of the grabbing brown hands. It was a beautiful evening - orange skies and water ribboned with the moon's reflection.

Exurb - A residential area outside a city and beyond its suburbs, typically inhabited by well-to-do families.

"Real breakthroughs are not found because you want to develop some new technology, but because you are curious and want to find out how the world is" -Anton Zeilinger 2008

Hi Kelly - take care Larrf  ¶ 11:28 PM 1 comments