All Time?

June 29 2009 – the Cut Away and other structure at the Point were on fire – 5.3 feet at 11 seconds from 320 with 2.7 feet 14 seconds from 205. Got some great waves, and watched some great surfers. It was very good.

And here we are into the first week of July, and other than a couple days of LB-sized opportunity, the south has continued in the chest to head-high range non-stop. Dare I say it – “all time” – So far this summer has been “all time”. I think. I mean, what is “all time”? Surf all the time? Best surf in a long time? And what about the shape? I’ve been surfing the Cut Away and it’s been as good as it gets – outside and inside, down the line, square a turn – I was paddling back out, slowly so I could scan the potential of a set of shifters. I turned on one and thought about it until I saw Noi tracking fast down the line – then, perched along the backside of the wave, I saw Noi throw a 20 yard floater – the only way to make the section – and he did – it was “all time”. And the left – “all time”. I surfed an evening session – at about 8:00 pm, a couple of guys and me, and the sets were pouring in. All of us in rotation – paddling back out and watching overhead sets reeling into the cove. I stopped, threw my hands into the air and let out a primal scream of stoke – I couldn’t believe it. Folks in their backyard on the cliff yelled down at me, “are you ok?” Oh my gosh – I was ok – I got home at 9:30. July Fourth was another surprise – it seemed everyone was celebrating – they weren’t out surfing and the south was pushing. Just a few of us – even Townsend was going right. When I left, the tide was pushing in and the sets were still coming – only two guys on First Bowl – since when?

07/07/09 - “All time” is fading into “once upon a time”. Yes – the south seems to be taking a breather, but no complaints. It was good while it lasted. It seems the Monday after the Fourth of July weekend was the day all those who don’t surf holidays decided to splash. The crowd was way larger than over the weekend, and much more agro. I ended my session looking over my shoulder and keeping my distance from the multitudes of unknown LBs who were as unskilled as their leg ropes were long. One LB was swinging like a Kung Fu chain weapon and caught me in the calf – I’ll be limping a few days. Well – summer is not over.

LB today – the glide was great for a change, but I don’t want to make a habit of it quite yet. I peeked at the southern hemisphere and it looks like two pulses of south are in the making. We shall see. Anyway, my last glide and eventual make for the straight got me in trouble. When I sat down to take the white water in the ass, the foam ball picked up the back end of the LB and drove the nose deep six inches. I held on while the board pivoted on the reef – Ralph – Help me Mr. Wizard.

I've got nothing else to say - surf's been great, O's looking same ole' - I still can't get past the fuss over making the insurance companies compete with a lower cost alternative - drive them out of business? Maybe they could try harder - like the rest of us. Or the hostage relationship with Israel. Or holding prisoners found not guilty. I'm just a consumer, nothing else.

Hey Penguin - it's a riot - even Hot Dog is out of hand - he and his band on condiments.

Pic: ad for my axe - picked it up in 1969.

The propagandist's purpose is to make one set of people forget that certain other sets of people are human. -Aldous Huxley, novelist (1894-1963)  ¶ 11:08 PM