First South

The nexus of the spring equinox and first south swell of the season. The weather was beautiful and the water was clear. The tide kept the kelp thin and wind provided a light texture; and Tiburones was showing its south swell face. I surfed a good rotation with Rach. That's it. After a while, Esteban and Anthony joined in the fun, and just before I got out of the water, the Mayor showed up to keep in touch with his constituents. Really small rotation for the first south of the year.

Word from Gerry - our summer visitor from H-land - is that the south shore is going off - double overhead. Gerry surfed Threes, and given the exclamations in his email - must have been good. We should see the swell in a few days - served up by Cyclone Tomas.

Final Word
Though force can protect in emergency, only justice, fairness, consideration and cooperation can finally lead men to the dawn of eternal peace. -Dwight D. Eisenhower, U.S. general and 34th president (1890-1969)  ¶ 11:06 PM